The town of Cortona lies close to the eastern border of Tuscany, north of the Lake Trasimene in Umbria, and 30km/19mi south of Arezzo.
History
Cortona is one of the oldest towns in Italy. It was one of the twelve cities of the Etruscan League, and later became a Roman colony. During the Middle Ages it passed through various vicissitudes before coming under the control of Florence in 1411. The painter Luca Signorelli (d. 1523) was born in Cortono in 1441 or 1450.
The Museo dell'Accadémia Etrusca displays Etruscan artifacts, as well as Roman and Egyptian archeological finds. Of particular interest is an Egyptian painted wood funerary boat.
From the Piazza Garibaldi a twisting road with four sharp bends descends for 3km/2mi to the southern slope of the town hill, on which stands the church of Santa Maria del Calcinaio, a beautiful domed building on a cruciform plan by Francesco di Giorgio of Siena. The church was dedicated to a miraculous Madonna (originally on the wall of a lime pit = calcinaio).
Just below the Fortezza, on the flank of the hill, is the Santuario di Santa Margherita, with a pilgrimage church dedicated to St Margaret of Cortona (1247-97). The present church, in Neo- Byzantine style, was built between 1856 and 1897. The Saint's tomb dates from 1362; her relics are in a silver shrine (1646) on the high altar. From the square in front of the church there is a magnificent view into the Val di Chiana.
Address: Convento Santuario Frati Minori, Piazza Santa Margherita, I-52044 Cortona, Italy
To the south of Cortona (reached by the road from the Porta Sant'Agostino) is the so-called Cave of Pythagoras, an Etruscan tomb of the fourth century B.C. on a cruciform plan. The tomb chamber, measuring 2.05m by 2.53m/6ft 9in. by 8ft 4in., was enclosed by large wedge-shaped blocks. The tomb has no connection with Pythagoras; the name seems to come from a confusion between Cortona and the Greek city of Kroton (now Crotone) in Calabria. There are other Etruscan tombs at Camucia and Il Sodo, in the plain below the town.
The Convento delle Celle, on the slopes of Monte Sant'Egidio, is a charming complex of monks' cells, the first of which were founded by St Francis of Assisi between 1211 and 1221. Visitors can see the little church (1573) and a number of cells. From the convent there is a very fine view of Cortona.
High above the old town of Cortona, at the northeast corner of the walls, looms the Fortezza Medicea. This Médici stronghold was built in 1556 on earlier foundations. It now houses an agricultural college and research institute. Fine panoramic views.
The west side of the square is dominated by the imposing Palazzo Comunale, which was already in existence in 1241; it was rebuilt in 1275, enlarged in the 16th century and rather clumsily restored in 1896. The front of the palazzo is given its characteristic aspect by the battlemented clock-tower (1509) and the flight of steps (also 16th century) leading up to it.
Outside Cortona to the east is the Palazzone Passerini, built by Giovanni Battista Caporali for Cardinal Passerini. Dominated by a massive battlemented tower, it has a charming garden with arcades. The rooms of the palace are decorated with frescoes; those in the chapel are attributed to Luca Signorelli, and the story goes that while working on them in 1532 he fell from the scaffolding and died from his injuries. The palace now houses an educational establishment.
In the center of Cortona, built on the slopes of the hill and still surrounded by well-preserved walls, lies the Piazza della Repúbblica, on the east side of which is the Palazzo del Pópolo (14th century, rebuilt 1514 onwards).
To the northwest of the Town Hall in Cortona is the Piazza Signorelli, with the Palazzo Pretorio, the facade of which bears the coats of arms of former podestàs; it now houses the Accademia Etrusca (founded 1726) and the Museum of Etruscan Antiquities (Etruscan bronze candelabrum; fifth century B.C.).
Above the center of the old town of Cortona, half-way up to the Fortezza, is the little 15th century Church of San Nicolò which has a small porch with slender columns. The interior (remodeled in Baroque style) has paintings by Luca Signorelli (two-sided panel-painting, "Descent from the Cross" and "Madonna Enthroned"; fresco, "Madonna with Saints").
Outside the town walls (Porta Colonia), to the north, is the Church of Santa Maria Nuova, a Renaissance structure on a square plan with a high dome. Designed by Giovanni Battista Infregliati, it was completely remodeled by Giorgio Vasari. Of the paintings in the interior the most notable is a "Birth of the Virgin" by Alessandro Allori (16th century).