Surroundings, Venice

The pretty little fishing village (pop. 6,000) with painted houses and boats has been very well restored and is now the lagoon's artists' colony.Burano lace is famous; it is not made on bobbins but stitched. This art had been almost forgotten before it was revived in the early years of the 20th century.

Near the southern end of the Venice lagoon (SS 309 "Strada Roma" from Marghera) lies the lively island town of Chioggia (alt. 2m/6.5ft; pop. 50,000), once the center of Venetian salt production. The town was destroyed by the Genoese in 1379 and is now a flourishing fishing port.Chioggia attracts many visitors on account of its picturesque tumble-down streets, its canals, which are reminiscent of those of Venice, and its colorful bohemian life. At the beginning of the Corso del Popolo, the principal thoroughfare which is filled with cafes, restaurants and shops, stand the Cathedral, restored by B. Longhena, the 14th century Campanile (64m/210ft high) and the little Gothic church of San Martino (1392). Opposite San Martino is the house where the painter Rosalba Carriera (1675-1757) was born. In the mid 1880s Venice's famous playwright Carlo Goldini lived in Chioggia. In his comedy "Baruffechiozzote" he portrayed the citizens of the town in a most amusing way.

On the island of San Pietro di Castello, at the eastern edge of Venice and on the site of Olivolo, one of the first settlements in the lagoon, this church was built to serve the city as its first cathedral.According to legend, in the seventh century Bishop Magnus of Altinum had a vision of St Peter who ordered him to build a church "where he found sheep and goats grazing". From 775 onwards the Church of San Pietro was the episcopal church and from 1451 to 1807 it was the church of the Patriarchs of Venice. This function was not taken over by the Basilica di San Marco until after the fall of the Republic.The present church was built in the 17th century. Its facade is thought to be based on a design by Palladio. The Campanile was designed by Mauro Coducci (1482-88) in the Early Renaissance style. The original tower roof collapsed in 1670.Of interest are the Baroque High Altar by Baldassare Longhena (1649) and the so-called "Cattedra di San Pietro", the marble throne supposed to have been used by St Peter in Antioch.

San Michele is the cemetery island of Venice. The present cemetery was laid out in the 19th century. Since it is on an island, the cemetery's capacity is limited and most Venetians can only count on having a resting-place there for 12 years, after which the remains are reinterred communally and burial-places are reused.Of the monastery which used to be here there remains the 15th century cloister, together with the attractive Renaissance Church of San Michele, built by Mauro Coducci (1469-78).The hexagonal Cappella Emiliana added by Guglielmo Bergamasco in 1530 is also worth seeing.

The Giardini Pubblici were laid out by Napoleon I at the southeast end of the main island. Nowadays, however, much of the site is covered by the buildings which house the "Biennale", the biennial international art exhibition which takes place every two years. Nevertheless there is sufficient room for Rococo and 19th century statues and for paths among the palms, acacias and plane trees.

According to legend St Francis of Assisi rested on this tiny island on his way back from the Holy Land (1220). The little church dating from 1228, surrounded by cypresses, has a charming atmosphere. After a visit it is customary to give the monks a small donation.

Venice's airport is Marco Polo International Airport near Tessara, 13km/8 mi northeast of the city. Transport to and from Venice is by bus or motor launch. Nicelli Airport in San Nicolò di Lido can only be used by small aircraft.