Salerno, capital of the province of the same name, lies some 50km/31mi southeast of Naples at the north end of the Gulf of Salerno, where the hills of the Sorrento peninsula fall steeply down to the Tyrrhenian Sea.
The old town, rising up the slopes of the hill on the site of the ancient Salernum, still preserves many memories of its great days during the medieval period. It had the oldest medical school in Europe, which flourished from the 11th century until it was closed down by Murat, Napoleon's brother- in-law, in 1812.
Exquisite tomb paintings are found in the cemeteries outside of Paestum. The tombs cover a large time span with some dating to the 5th Century B.C. Among the paintings are scenes depicting everyday life.
The Cathedral of San Matteo was built around 1080 and contains 28 columns and fourteen ancient sarcophagi. It underwent renovations in both 1768 and after WWII.
From the A3 motorway east of Salerno an attractive detour can be made by way of the little town of Auletta (280m/924ft), below the north side of the Monti Alburni (1,742m/5,749ft), to the stalactitic Grotta di Pertosa, a cave system 2,250m/7,425ft long. The caves were inhabited from the end of the Neolithic period.
A detour can be made off the A3 motorway in southern Campania. Just outside Padula (699m/2,307ft; pop. 6,000) stands the Certosa di San Lorenzo, founded in 1308, a massive building dating mostly from the 17th and 18th century, with three beautifully arcaded courtyards and a large external staircase by Vanvitelli.
About 30km/19mi north of Salerno lies Avellino (348m/1,148ft; pop. 57,000), capital of the province of the same name and the see of an archbishop. The town has food and textile industries and is a trade center for agricultural produce.
Address: Province of Avellino Tourist Office, Via Due Principanti 5, I-83100 Avellino, Italy
2.5km/1.5mi southwest of Palinuro lies Capo Palinuro (203m/670ft; lighthouse), the south side of which falls sheer down to the sea. Here, too, are several caves accessible only from the sea.
From the Cathedral of San Matteo in Salerno it is a 45minutes' walk to the old Lombard Castello di Arechi (263m/868ft) on the hill northwest of the town. The castle was strengthened by Robert Guiscard in the 11th century. From here there are extensive views.
Address: Castello di Arechi, Via Benedetto Croce 1, I-84121 Salerno, Italy
Along the seafront to the east of the harbor, now used only by local shipping (trips to Capri, Amalfi and Positano), extends the Lungomare Trieste, a fine promenade lined by imposing modern buildings and affording extensive views. Parallel to the Lungomare Trieste is Via Roma, which with its continuation to the southeast, the Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, is the town's principal traffic artery. At the west end of Via Roma we come to the Piazza Amendola, bounded on the east by the Palazzo di Città (Town Hall) and on the southwest by the Prefecture. Behind the Prefecture are the beautiful Public Gardens (Villa Comunale), on the west side of which is the Teatro Verdi.
A little way east of the cathedral in Salerno, in Via San Benedetto, is the interesting Provincial Museum, with antiquities, including an over-life-size bronze head of Apollo of the first century B.C. and pictures.
Address: Museo Provinciale in Salerno, Via San Benedetto 28, I-84100 Salerno, Italy
Tips: Closed every first and third Monday of each month.
Along the bays of Naples and Salerno in particular there are numerous seaside resorts, some of them very elegant and fashionable. Further south is the resort of Palinuro (53m/174ft), with excellent facilities for all kinds of water sports (diving center). To the west of the town is the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto), which is accessible only by boat.