The old ducal city of Bourges, now chief town of the département of Cher, the see of a bishop and a university town, lie at the confluence of the Yèvre and the Aveyron in the fertile province of Berry, which claims to be the heart of France. In addition to its famous cathedral it preserves many remains of its past, including old palaces and burghers' houses.
The principal industries of Bourges are armaments, engineering, car manufacture and tires.
Bourges, the Gallic town of Avaricum, was conquered by Caesar in 52 BC. In the early Middle Ages it was the chief town of a county, and later it became the residence of the Dukes of Berry, under whom it prospered economically and culturally, acquiring a university at which Jean Calvin, the future Reformer, was a student around 1530. During the wars of religion the town, which was captured by the Protestants in 1562, was largely destroyed.
The Cathedral of St Etienne has a fantastic west front with large towers, five doorways, and a fine 14th C rose window. The interior contains impressive figures of Christ, and noteworthy 13th C stained glass.
The Palais Jacques Coeur is among the country's finest examples of a wealthy middle class Gothic mansion. Contained within is a good selection of sculptures dating from the 15th and 16th C.
In Rue des Arènes, on the west side of old town Bourges, is the Hôtel Cujas, a fine Renaissance mansion (c 1515) which now houses the Musée du Berry (prehistoric and Roman remains, folk art and traditions).
Address: Hôtel Cujas, 4 rue des Arènes, F-18000 Bourges, France
Hours:
10am-12pm, 2pm-6pm; Closed: Mon
Always closed on: New Year's Day (January 1), May Day / Labor Day (May 1), All Saints' Day - Christian (November 1), Remembrance Day / 1918 Armistice Day (November 11), Christmas - Christian (December 25)
In Bourges, on the south side of the cathedral is the former Bishop's Palace (16th C), now the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall). Adjoining is the beautiful Jardin de l'Archevêché, probably laid out by Le Notre in the 17th C. At the south end of the gardens is the Maison de la Culture (House of Culture), with a piece of sculpture by Alexander Calder in front of it.
Hours:
8:30am-12pm, 1:30pm-5:30pm; Sat:8:30am-12pm, 9am-5:30pm; Closed: Sun
In Bourges, southeast of the church of Notre-Dame is the Hôtel des Echevins (late 15th C), the meeting-place of the town's mayor and magistrates, with a beautiful courtyard.
Notable features are the octagonal staircase tower in Flamboyant style and the Renaissance gallery, built only 20 years later.
The house is now occupied by the Musée Maurice-Estève (20th C painting and graphic art).
Address: Hôtel des Echevins, 13 rue Edouard Branly, F-18000 Bourges, France
Hours:
10am-12pm, 2pm-6pm; Closed: Mon
Always closed on: New Year's Day (January 1), May Day / Labor Day (May 1), All Saints' Day - Christian (November 1), Remembrance Day / 1918 Armistice Day (November 11), Christmas - Christian (December 25)
In Bourges, to the north of the cathedral is a handsome 16th C merchant's house, the Hôtel Lallemant, now occupied by the Musée d'Art Décoratif. The collection includes furniture, tapestries and pictures, mainly of the 17th C. The former residential apartments and chapel have fine coffered ceilings. On the chimneypieces are the heraldic emblems of Louis XII (a porcupine) and Anne de Bretagne (an ermine).
Address: Musée de l'Hôtel Lallemant, 6 rue Bourbonnoux, F-18000 Bourges, France
Hours:
July 1 to August 31: 10am-6:30pm
September 1 to June 30: 10am-12pm, 2pm-6pm; Sun:10am-12pm, 2pm-6pm; Mon:10am-12pm, 2pm-6pm
Always closed on: New Year's Day (January 1), May Day / Labor Day (May 1), All Saints' Day - Christian (November 1), Remembrance Day / 1918 Armistice Day (November 11), Christmas - Christian (December 25)
The church of Notre-Dame, to the north of Bourges old town, was built in the 15th C and, after being destroyed in a great fire in 1487, rebuilt in 1520-1523. It thus illustrates the transition from Gothic to Renaissance style.
To the south of Notre-Dame, is the Hôtel Pelvoisin (15th-16th C), said to have been occupied by the master builder who built the cathedral.
10km/6miles south of Bourges are the ruins of the Château de Bois-Sir-Aimé, in which Charles VII's mistress Agnès Sorel lived. Beyond this, on the road to St-Amand-Montrond, is the Château de Meillant (late 16th C), which resembles one of the Loire Châteaux in its architecture and sumptuous decoration.
Chateau de Meillantis a particularly impressive example of medieval romanticism, a masterpiece in pomp and circumstance, with a great abundance of engraved banners, fleur-de-lys and coats of arms. The first signs of Renaissance architecture can be seen in this castle's construction.
The interior of Chateau de Meillant possesses rare and valuable furnishings of Italian style. Of exceptional note is a collection of Italian-made medallions featuring the heads of Roman emperors.
Address: Chateau de Meillant, St Amand Montrond, F-18200 Meillant, France
Hours:
May 15 to September 14: 9:30am-6pm
September 15 to November 14: 9:30am-12pm, 2pm-5:30pm
6km/4mi north of La Châtre is Nohant, with a small Château in which the novelist and feminist George Sand (1804-1876) was brought up and lived for many years. There is a small George Sand Museum in the keep of the old castle of La Châtre.
Address: Domaine de George Sand, F-36400 Nohant-Vic, France
Hours:
April 1 to June 30: 9:30am-12:45pm, 2pm-6:30pm
July 1 to August 31: 9:30am-7pm
September 1 to September 30: 9:30am-12:45pm, 2pm-6:30pm
South of Bourges, in the Cher valley, is the little town of St-Amand-Montrond, in an area where the famous white Charolais cattle are bred. In the southeast of the town is the Romanesque church of St-Amand (12th C). 16km/10mi north are the ruins of a 14th C castle which belonged to Duc Jean de Berry.
Address: Saint-Amand-Montrond-Orval Tourist Office, Place de la République, F-18200 Saint-amand-montrond-orval, France