The Dingle Peninsula is the most northerly of the hilly promontories which reach out from the southwestern corner of Ireland, extending westward for more than 30mi/50km from the low-lying country around Tralee and Killorglin.
The highest point on the peninsula, Brandon Mountain (3,085ft/940m), rears up at the end of a chain of hills which at Brandon Head plunge almost straight into the sea from a height of 2,462ft/750m. To the west of this range is a rolling coastal plain studded with typical Irish farms and hamlets. Here there are few stone walls; corn is grown in small square fields, and red fuschia hedges, pale green ferns and black moss add their distinctive colorings to the landscape.
This is a predominantly Irish-speaking area (Gaeltacht), and old traditions, customs and crafts are still very much alive.
The area is littered with prehistoric and Early Christian remains.
4.5mi/7km west of Inch, around Anascaul, is an area where wild orchids grow in great variety. The road then continues on its way to Dingle between the hills and the sea.
1.5mi/2.5km from the little town of Anascul, the R559 passes Ballintaggart, with an old circular burial ground containing a number of ogham stones (National Monument), some of them with crosses.
On the coast northwest of Kilmalkedar lies the fishing village of Ballydavid, where the traditional curraghs - light but seaworthy vessels of tarred canvas on a framework of laths - are still made.
At Ballynavenooragh, some distance inland at the foot of Brandon Mountain, can be found a large group of beehive huts, several of them double, and two stone ring-forts (all National Monuments).
At Brandon Mountain on the Dingle Peninsula are the remains of St Brendan's Oratory and a number of stone huts (National Monuments). The climb, best tackled from Cloghane or Faha, or from the west (clearly marked paths), is well worth the effort for its own sake and for the magnificent views to be had from the top.
The road from Tralee runs west along Tralee Bay to Camp. Southeast of the village rises Caherconree (2,668ft/813m), which can be climbed from a valley branching off to the south. Beneath the peak stands a massive promontory fort (there is a board at the side of the road between Camp and Aughils from which a path goes up to the fort).
From Ventry the R559 follows the rocky south coast of the Dingle Peninsula. On the left, directly above the sea (path to the site dangerous), is the fine promontory fort of Dunbeg, with four earthen ramparts and a stone wall. Within the fort are the remains of a house, square in plan within its circular outside wall. An underground passage leads from the interior of the fort to the outer defenses.
On the east side of Smerwick Harbor, on a rock promontory, stands Dún an Oir, the "Fort of Gold." Here in 1580, 600 Spanish and Irish who gave themselves up to English forces were massacred.
Two miles/three km southwest of Gallarus Castle we come to one of the few castles to have been preserved on the Dingle Peninsula, Gallarus Castle (16th C.: National Monument), a four-story keep with some vaulted rooms. 0.75m/1km away is Gallarus Oratory (National Monument). Shaped like an upturned boat (Gallarus, "strange house"), it has walls over 3ft/1m thick, so carefully constructed, without the use of mortar, that the little chapel (measuring only 15x10ft/4.5x3m) is still watertight after 1,200 years.
At Glanfahan, near Dunbeg, can be seen a remarkable group of remains, including 417 beehive huts (built without the use of mortar), 19 souterrains and 18 standing stones (all National Monuments). A charge is made for entry to some of the sites.
At Camp the R559 bears southwest and winds its way up through hilly country of the Dingle Peninsula. In 5mi/8km a side road branches off on the left and runs south to Inch, a sheltered seaside resort from which a 3mi/5km long ridge of dunes extends into the sea.
Driving west from Milltown, the R559 comes to Ventry, 2mi/3km northwest of which, on the Ballyferriter road, are the ruins of Rahinnane Castle (15th C., National Monument), in a circular enclosure surrounded by a 30ft/9m deep moat.
The southwestern tip of the Dingle Peninsula is formed by Slea Head. From the narrow road below Mount Eagle (1,695ft/517m) there are extensive views of the cliffs and the offshore islands.
To the north of Ballyferriter is a broad inlet, Smerwick Harbor, on the east side of which, on a rock promontory, stands DÔn an Oir, the "Fort of Gold."