The largest of the peninsulas which project into the Atlantic in Kerry, in the southwest of Ireland, is the Iveragh Peninsula, bounded on the south by the estuary of the Kenmare River, on the west by the Atlantic and on the north by Dingle Bay. At the east end of the peninsula Macgillicuddy's Reeks tower up above the Killarney lakes.
A scenic road, the famous Ring of Kerry, encircles the peninsula, keeping close to the coastline for most of the way. Starting from Kenmare at the southeast corner of the peninsula, the route (here on the N70) runs west to Waterville and then north and northeast to Killorglin; from there the R562 goes inland to Killarney, from which the N71 leads south to Kenmare.
The total length of the round trip is 100mi/158km; a detour to Valentia Island at the northeast corner of the peninsula will add at least another 25mi/40km. In suitable weather the Ring of Kerry is a road of extraordinary scenic beauty; it is not really possible, therefore, to do it justice in a day trip. It should be remembered also that at the height of the season traffic is very heavy on the roads.
At Castlecove, 8mi/13km west of Sneem, a very narrow road leaves the N70 on the right and comes in just over 1mi/2km to a large stone fort on a hill between two valleys. This is Staigue Fort (National Monument), a circular structure of drystone walling, 90ft/27m in diameter and over 16ft/5m high, surrounded by a ditch. The walls are 13ft/4m thick, with staircases on the inside and small chambers in the thickness of the wall.
After crossing the River Laune (salmon fishing) the road forks. The N70 continues straight ahead to Milltown, west of which are the ruins of Kilcoman Abbey (13th century: National Monument), and Tralee, while the R562 turns east and, following the river, continues on the Ring of Kerry. 4mi/6km from the road fork, 0.5mi/800m away on the banks of the river, stands Ballymalis Castle (16th C.; National Monument), the picturesque ruin of a four-story tower. Extensive views of Macgillicuddy's Reeks.
At Castlecove, 8mi/13km west of Sneem, a very narrow road leaves the N70 on the right and comes in just over 1mi/2km to a large stone fort on a hill between two valleys. The N70 then continues for some distance along the sea with its many small islands and then turns inland to Caherdaniel (trout fishing, swimming, surfing), near which is a small stone fort similar to Staigue.
The N70 north from Waterville has a road branching off on the left to Portmagee. From here a very beautiful but narrow road leads south to the Coomanaspig Gap (1,080ft/330m), from which there are splendid views of the bays and bird-covered islands of the Atlantic.
From Cahirciveen the N70 continues northeast up the valley of Kells, then keeps close to the foot of Drung Hill, finally descending to Glenbeigh. The beautifully situated little holiday resort of Glenbeigh has good fishing. 1mi/2km west is a beautiful sandy beach, Rossbeigh Strand.
From Kenmare the N70 runs west along the north side of the inlet known as the Kenmare River. On the right can be seen the foothills of Macgillicuddy's Reeks, on the left, over the water, the Caha Mountains.
From Glenbeigh it is 9mi/15km through an undulating morainic landscape to the little town of Killorglin, where the famous Puck Fair is held every year on August 10-12.
This annual three-day festival dates as far back as 1613. A goat named King Puck is the festival's main feature. The goat is paraded through the town on opening day and is put on a platform for the rest of the festivities. The events offered during the three days include a live-stock sale, as well as informal dances and concerts.
4mi/6km from Templenoe is Tahilla and, beyond this, Parknasilla, a beautifully situated holiday resort with a mild climate all year round in which palms, pines, bamboos and jasmine flourish.
The road turns inland from Parknasilla, coming in 2mi/3km to Sneem, a fishing center in a narrow inlet. The Protestant church (16th C., much altered) has an unusual weathervane in the form of a salmon. There is good walking and climbing in the hills to the north and west, which rise to 2,166ft/660m.
At Templenoe is a church of 1816. Beyond this, at the ruins of Dromore Castle, is a viewpoint and parking lot. In 7.5mi/12km the valley of the Blackwater (salmon and trout fishing) opens up on the right. The river plunges down to the sea in a deep gorge; from the road a footpath leads down through dense, almost tropical vegetation to the shore. A charming little road ascends the valley and over an 850ft/250m pass to Glencar and Lough Caragh.
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Waterfall off the Ring of Kerry.
Landscape of the Ring of Kerry.
Landscape along the Ring of Kerry.
View over the Kerry Peninsula.
