Walled City, Nicosia

In the old center of Nicosia, a town of narrow lanes enclosed within a massive ring of Venetian walls, stands the Gothic St John's Cathedral, seat of the Greek Orthodox Archbishop of Cyprus.This is one of the most-revered churches in Cyprus. Official services are held here, presided over by the Archbishop and in the presence of the political leaders of the country.This was once the Benedictine monastery where it is claimed that the finger of John the Baptist was preserved until the Mamelukes stole it. It then became a Greek Orthodox monastery and the present buildings were constructed in 1662 by Archbishop Nikoforos.The 18th century wall paintings inside depict scenes from the bible and the discover of the tomb of St Barnabas.

East of the Cyprus Museum of Folk Art is the Archbishop's Palace. In one of the buildings adjoining is an Icon Museum.The center of the Cyprus Orthodox Church, the New Archbishopric was built in a neo-Byzantine style in 1960. The Old Archbishopric houses the Folk Art Museum.The building was built in 1957 in Venetian style. It has Archbishop Makarios' bedroom preserved along with his heart, which is kept in a special case. It can be visited only on special occasions.Outside is a bust of Archbishop Kyprianos, who was hanged by the Turks in 1821. There is also a huge black statue of Archbishop Makarios.

This former residence of the Dragoman Chatzigeorgakis Kornesios is the most important 18th century building in Nicosia. It won the 1988 Europa Nostra Award.The house is a fine example of Turkish architecture, with a closed balcony and impressive woodwork. Chatzigeorgakis was the great Dragoman of Cyprus during 1779-1809, the official interpreter of the island, a highly prestigious position. He later left for Constantinople and was arrested and executed in 1809. The house has now been restored. In the garden are fragments of tombstones, arches and the torsos of statues.

The most impressive sights in Nicosia are the Venetian Walls. Although they are crumbling in parts, they are still spectacular, being 2mi/3km in circumference. The Venetians built the current inner walls with their 11 bastions and three fortified gates: Famagusta, Kyrenia, and Paphos. From Famagusta Gate you can walk back to the main city along or close to the walls, passing by a huge statue of various bronze figures, known as the Statue of Liberty.In the moat there are several pleasant parks and gardens, the best being behind Famagusta Gate, where there are several sculptures.

Ledra Street is one of the most popular in Nicosia. It is the heart of old Nicosia, and has been pedestrianized, making it more accessible. The street makes up the shopping district of old Nicosia, with many little shops lining either side.The road comes to an abrupt end at an army sentry post. Behind the post is "no-man's land" and beyond that are the Turkish occupied areas of Cyprus. Tourists can visit the sentry post and look through a small peep hole at the other side.

The Omeriye Mosque is located near the main municipal market, within the walled city. Converted into a mosque in 1571 by Mustapha Pasha, most of the original building was destroyed by Ottoman artillery. The door of the main entrance belongs to the 14th century Lusignan building.On the first floor are Lusignan tombstones, used by the Turks to refloor the building. The minaret is particularly tall and dominates this part of the city. It is still used as a mosque by visiting Moslems.

Eleftheria Square stands at the main thoroughfare between the old and new towns of Nicosia and is a good place for visitors to get their bearings. On the east side of the square is the D'avila bastion, which now houses the main post office, municipal library and the town hall.The square itself crosses the moat and is a busy place lined with the typical Cypriot newspaper kiosks.

Immediately north of St John's Cathedral is an interesting Museum of Folk Art.The Nicosia Museum of Folk Art was established by the Cyprus Studies Organization in 1950 to house all genuine and representative objects of Cypriot folk art made during the 19th and 20th centuries.The exhibits include a watermill, weaving looms, chests and hand-woven costumes.

Laiki Yeitonia is an old section of the walled city of Nicosia that has been restored to its traditional character. The narrow stone streets have been paved and are lined with period houses, jewelry and handicraft shops, charming tavernas and century-old churches.

Within walking distance from the Archbishopric is the Chrysaliniotissa Church, dedicated to Our Lady of the Golden Flax. This is considered to be the oldest church in Nicosia and is believed to have been built in 1450 by Queen Helena Palaeologos.

The small Cyprus Postal and Philatelic Museum houses the full range of Cypriot stamps and artifacts relating to Cypriot postal history. The museum opened in 1981 and was upgraded in 1999 to include additional exhibits.

The Cyprus Tourism Organization (CTO) offers a two-hour walking tour of Nicosia every Thursday at 10am. The tour starts at the CTO office in Laiki Geitonia and gives visitors a chance to get acquainted with the old character of the city.

Onasagoras, parallel to Ledra Street, has been paved for pedestrians. It is lined with small shops, which are not aimed at tourists, therefore prices are quite reasonable.

Phaneromeni Church was built in 1872 and is located on Odos Onassagorou, within the old city. The marble mausoleum to the east of the church contains the relics of the bishops and priests executed by the Turks in 1821.