Jaen Attractions

From Las Navas de Tolosa N IV climbs gradually to Santa Elena (alt. 742m/2435ft), a pretty little place situated on a hill from which there are extensive views, near the boundary between Andalusia and New Castile.

Just before Andújar, a winding mountain road branches off on the right and runs north to the Santuario de la Virgen de la Cabeza, a chapel founded in the 13th century, totally destroyed during the Civil War and subsequently rebuilt, from which there are tremendous panoramic views.

30km/19mi west of Bailén on N IV is Andújar (alt. 212m/696ft), on the right bank of the Guadalquivir, here spanned by a bridge which goes back to Roman times. The town, lying near the ancient Iberian settlement of Illiturgo (Los Villares), is a center of olive oil production and is also noted for its fine pottery (alcarrazas, jarras). The streets are lined with handsome old houses and churches. The Gothic church of Santa María has a painting by El Greco, ''Christ in the Garden of Olives'', housed in a chapel which is closed off by a finely wrought grille. The church of San Miguel has fine carved woodwork.

Past the La Magdelena is the Palacio Villardompado, underneath which an extensive 11th century Arab bathing establishment was discovered. The palace itself contains a museum of art and folk traditions.

The Ruta de las Batallas crosses the Río Guadalquivir and continues north to Bailén (alt. 349m/1145ft), where the Roman consul Scipio the Elder defeated the Carthaginian general Hasdrubal in 208 B.C. Here too, in 1808, Spanish troops commanded by General Castaños defeated a French army for the first time. The general is buried in the church of La Encarnación (16th century), which also contains a sculpture by Alonso Cano.

East from the Arab baths in Jaén is the Capilla de San Andrés, founded in 1515 by Gutiérrez González Doncel, treasurer to Popes Leo X and Clement VII, which is believed to occupy the site of a former synagogue. In the Capilla de la Purísima can be seen a statue of the Virgin (Andalusian school) and a painting of the Virgen del Pópulo. There is also a very fine choir screen by a local master named Bartolomé.

Past the Convento de Santo Domingo lies the church of La Magdalena; built on the site of an Arab mosque this is probably the oldest church in Jaén. It has a Late Gothic doorway and a fine retablo, but especially a beautiiful patio. Opposite the church can be seen the ''Raudal de la Magdalena'', a fine fountain which was used by the Romans.

The Ruta de las Batallas continues north from Bailén on N IV, which passes a side road to Baños de la Encina (fine 10th century castle) and after going through Guarromán (alt. 349m/1145ft) reaches the little town of La Carolina (alt. 605m/1985ft). Like other places in this area, La Carolina was founded by French and German settlers whom Charles III had brought into the Sierra Morena between 1767 and 1769. The once rich lead-mines in the surrounding area are now in ruins. The town itself has a number of handsome old mansions.

11km/7mi southeast of Jaén on a minor road is the little town of La Guardia de Jaén, with the remains of ancient buildings which bear witness to its Roman origin. It also has a ruined castle, an interesting parish church and a courtyard (designed by Vandelvira) which is all that remains of a Dominican monastery founded in the 16th century.

Northwest of the cathedral in Jaén is the former Moorish old town of La Magdalena, at the foot of the hill.

Just north of La Carolina, 2.5km/1.5mi off N IV to the right, is Las Navas de Tolosa (alt. 694m/2,277ft), another attractive old settlers' village. Here on July 16, 1212, the united army of Castile, Aragon and Navarre inflicted an annihilating defeat on the Almohads - an event commemorated by a monument outside the town.

15km/9mi east of Bailén is the mining town of Linares (alt. 418m/1,371ft). Features of interest in Linares are the church of Santa María la Mayor (12th-13th century) and a fine 16th century retablo in the church of San Francisco.

The Archeological Museum displays Iberian, Carthaginian and Roman finds from the site of Cástulo (5km/3mi north), the largest Iberian settlement in the lead and silver mining area on the upper Guadalquivir.

There are palaces and mansions of important families on the many squares in Jaén.

The Ruta de las Batallas ("Battle Trail") leaves Jaén on N 323, following a winding course northwards above the valley of the Río Guadalbuilón, and comes in 24km/15mi to Mengíbar (alt. 323m/1,060ft), the ancient Ossigi, once a Moorish stronghold, of which only the tower remains.

Near the Plaza de los Caños to the north of the cathedral, stands the 13th century Monasterio de Santa Clara, the oldest sacral building in Jaén. It has a beautiful cloister and a fine figure of Christ, the "Cristo de Bambú".

The busy New Town of Jaén begins to the north of the cathedral near the Plaza de la Constitución, with its main axis the Paseo de la Estación.

In the Paseo de la Estación of Jaén, in buildings dating from 1920 is housed the Museo Provincial with the art gallery on the first floor and an archeological section on the ground floor. The most interesting exhibits are a Roman mosaic and Iberian sculpture.