Among the many places of interest that the Hawaiian Islands, and in particular Big Island, have to offer, the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is undoubtedly the most important. Here in the Halemaumau crater on the southern side of Kilauea is the home of the fire goddess Pele. According to Hawaiian legend, a volcano will erupt if she gets in a bad temper. Since July 1986 a new series of eruptions has spewed enormous quantities of lava up on to the surface. The island has grown by about 358,800sq.yd/300,000sq.m. Kilauea is one of the most impressive volcanoes in the world and its activities can be observed everywhere in the national park. Witnessing a fire-spitting eruption, however, would prove highly unlikely as these occur, on average, only once every eleven months.
The Hawaii Volcanoes National Park lies to the south-east of the Island of Hawaii and was founded in 1916. It includes a large part of Mauna Loa, all of Kilauea, including its eastern and southern sides, as well as the Puna Coast - in all, a considerable area of 21sq.miles/54sq.km.
The most accessible part of the national park is the Kilauea Caldera region which is signposted off road 11 when traveling from either Hona or Hilo.
The last violent eruptions of the Kilauea crater occurred in 1790 and 1924, since when it has not appeared active. However, the neighboring Halemaumau crater in the middle of Kilhauea Caldera, is more active. Eruptions on the slopes and in the thick forests are described only as flank eruptions, which are not as spectacular as summit eruptions as they usually bring only lava and are not accompanied by rivers of fire.
Lava flows have caused permanent changes to the landscape around Kilauea. Red-glowing magma, reaching temperatures of some 2200°F/1200°C, forces its way almost constantly through lateral channels to the outside, streams out of holes down the sides of the volcano and leaks out of weak spots known as fissures. One of these stretches out from the crater in a southerly direction as far as Ka'u, another east-north-east via Puna to the sea.
Lava sometimes flows through small valleys, which become filled in, and can destroy entire forests. But at the same time a new floor forms on which vegetation can grow, as demonstrated by the Destruction Trail in the National Park.
Lava masses bring great destruction - time and again houses are buried and roads made impassable. In April 1990 all the houses in the coastal village of Kalapana and the greater part of the world-famous Kaimu Black Sand Beach were destroyed. Since then road 130 between Kupaahu and Kalapana has also been partly destroyed. Only one of the village's two churches, the Star of the Sea Painted Church, could be successfully dismantled before the lava reached it; it was later rebuilt on stilts near the end of the road.
Despite all this the recent eruptions are considered mild compared with earlier ones. It was reported in 1790 that Keoua, a Hawaiian island chief and opponent of Kamehameha I, was resting with his troops near Kilauea when they were surprised by an eruption. The majority of the army died, leaving Kamehameha's troops little difficulty in defeating the remainder.
Current methods of assessing natural phenomena such as volcanoes and earthquakes have prevented any loss of life through volcanic eruptions on Hawaii in recent times.
Comprising about 99 acres/40ha this park, made an island by recent lava flows, is an ideal location for different species of endemic plants and trees, including koa, kolea and mamani trees. Rare Hawaiian birds can also be spotted here. A 1094yd/1km path leads through meadows and forests and offers ample opportunity to experience Hawaii's unique plant world. A brochure detailing everything of interest in the Bird Park can be obtained at the entrance.
Mauna Loa Road continues for 10 miles/16km to a 6564ft/2000m high viewing platform complete with car park. If the weather is good, panoramic views can be enjoyed.
A path leads on further to Mokuaweoweo crater at the summit of Mauna Loa (13,676ft/4167m). This 19 miles/30km walk, climbing to a height of 6564ft/2000m, although not difficult, requires two days to complete.
Continue in a south-westerly direction around Crater Rim Road to the very active Halema'uma'u crater, an enormous fiery hole, spanning 2625ft/800m and inhabited, according to legend by the Hawaiian goddess of fire, Pele. It was filled until 1924 with a bubbling sea of lava but this eventually sank with a mighty roar beneath the floor of the volcano and the lava flowed away. The hole filled up again in the 1960s but soon sank again. Halemaumau is monitored regularly but forecasts of its future activities are difficult to make.
Scientific reports accurately reflect the enormous number of lava flows from Hawaiian craters. When Mauna Loa remained active for 23 days in 1950, it alone spewed up 2354 million cu.ft/600 million cu.m. During the course of a century four thousand million cubic meters of magma was pushed to the surface, together with enormous lumps of rock. When Halema'uma'u erupted in 1924, seismologists estimated these to weigh 14 tons.