One Of Rick Steves' Least Favorite Places In Europe Is An Overrated Tourist Destination
Travel writer Rick Steves has become a go-to for many Americans traveling to Europe, with his expert advice ranging from how to outsmart pickpockets to narrowing down where to go, like his pick for the world's greatest city (Istanbul). Due to his decades of travel experience, Steves has formed clear opinions about Europe. One place in particular he has strong ideas about is Germany's Black Forest. As the travel guru says on his website regarding the best and worst of Europe, "Germany's famous Black Forest disappoints more people than it excites."
It may seem surprising, as even the name "Black Forest" ("Schwarzwald" in German) evokes a certain imagery of dark fairy tales and atmospheric landscapes. The name dates all the way back to the Romans, who found it mysterious and dark enough to deserve the moniker. However, nowadays, as Steves notes, "If it were all Germany offered, it would be worth seeing." But "the average American visitor who's seen more than three trees in one place" would be better served elsewhere, according to the guidebook author. When it comes to forests, Americans have likely seen bigger, after all. Plus, this is Germany we're talking about — there's not exactly a shortage of incredible destinations within its boundaries, and the Black Forest doesn't even crack the top 10 of Germany's greatest tourist attractions.
All of Steves' advice for avoiding the Black Forest or shortening your trip there, however, comes with a caveat. Steves writes, "These are just my personal feelings after more than 100 months of European travel. As you sort through these 'bests' and 'worsts,' go ahead and disagree. Don't let any travel writer limit your freedom to find your own ultimates."
Why Rick Steves considers the Black Forest overrated
When looking at a map of Germany, the legendary Black Forest covers 2,300 square miles in the southwestern corner, near the border of France. Despite its popularity, it remains a relatively rural area of the country, with exceptions for towns like renowned spa town Baden-Baden and university-centric Freiburg im Breisgau (Freiburg). These larger hamlets are the ideal base for your trip — if you decide to go.
Although Rick Steves recommends other destinations in Germany, even he finds things to love about the Black Forest. The key is to avoid tourist-heavy spots like Titisee, which Steves calls "a mobbed mountain lake about the size of a parking lot," and focus instead on the bucolic countryside, a "land of cuckoo clocks and healthy hikes." Spend your time hiking between quaint towns, like St. Märgen and St. Peter, which consists of an easy, 5.6-mile trail with breathtaking views of the rolling landscape.
You can also delve into the history of this corner of Germany at the Black Forest Open Air Museum, home to traditional farmhouses and mills. While at the museum, sample some local German wine at the on-site wine tavern, along with a slice of Black Forest cake (Schwarzwälder kirschtorte). The famous chocolate-and-cherry concoction does hail from the Black Forest, and as Steves notes, "a journey through this region isn't complete without indulging in the local specialty."
Where to go in Germany for fairy-tale vibes instead of the Black Forest
Rick Steves maintains that the Black Forest is one of Europe's biggest tourist traps to avoid. But where should you go instead? He says that many travelers "would prefer mountainous southern Bavaria, or the countryside around the Rhine and Mosel rivers — all high points that cut the Black Forest down to stumps." He's especially fond of the Mosel Valley and considers the riverside gem one of his favorite European getaways. The Mosel River remains mostly under the radar for tourists, which is another plus. "The Mosel is what some visitors hope the Rhine will be — peaceful, sleepy, romantic villages slipped between impossibly steep vineyards and the river," Steves notes on his website.
Another favorite of Steves' (and many a traveler) is the storied region of Bavaria, farther south in Germany near the border of Austria. Bavaria is a true fairy tale, with endless castles, medieval towns, and lively festivals (hello, Oktoberfest), all paired with astonishing Alpine views. Some of Bavaria's must-see tourist attractions include Neuschwanstein Castle, the fantastical palace built by Bavaria's King Ludwig II, and the colorful, mural-filled mountain town of Mittenwald. The capital of Bavaria, Munich, is also one of the country's top cities, home to cozy beer gardens, art museums, and dramatic squares crowned by churches.