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Mycenae Attractions Mykínes

The fortified city of Mycenae and the Mycenaean civilisation to which it gave its name were first introduced to the world by Heinrich Schliemann's excavations from 1874 onwards, which carried the history of Europe far back into the Bronze Age of the second millennium B.C.; and although many other strongholds and settlements of the same period have since been discovered Mycenae still retains its pre-eminence.

When the first Greeks came to this region around 2000 B.C. they would no doubt establish themselves on the 278m/912ft high hill "in the farthest corner of Argolis, nourisher of horses". Thereafter they mingled with the indigenous population and a hybrid culture evolved. In religion Greek and pre-Greek elements interpenetrated one another; linguistically the newcomers soon established their predominance, but the pre-Indo-European name of Mycenae was retained. Shaft graves dating from the 17th century B.C. give evidence of this period. Then, around 1580 B.C., a radical change began to take place, as influences from Egypt and the refined Minoan culture of Crete made themselves felt. The Early Mycenaean period which now began (1580-1500 B.C.) is notable for the wealth of gold found in the shaft graves, including the famous gold mask laid over the face of some dead prince and wrongly identified by Schliemann as belonging to Agamemnon (who lived at a later period). From the Middle Mycenaean period (1500-1425 B.C.) date the first known defensive walls and the early tholos tombs. The Late Mycenaean period (1425-1100 B.C.) also yielded a rich harvest of finds. The 14th century saw the construction of the later tholos tombs, including the so-called Treasury of Atreus; the older Megaron on the acropolis (ca. 1350 B.C.), the first palace of some pretension; and the cyclopean walls enclosing the site. The later Megaron, the Lion Gate and the extension at the east end were built about 1250 B.C. After 1230 B.C., when the threat from new invaders coming from the north was felt to be pressing, five different phases of work on strengthening the defenses have been identified; and the history of Mycenae finally came to an end about 1100 B.C. as a result of an attack by the "Sea Peoples" who are referred to in Egyptian sources or by the Dorians who followed them.

The village of Mykínes is a station on the Corinth-Trípoli railroad line. Bus services from Corinth and Árgos.
Things to See

Archaeological Site

On the way to the Citadel at Mycenae a number of Mycenaean houses can be seen on the right of the road. Just inside the enclosure are Grave Circle B, discovered in 1951, and a number of tholos tombs.

Lion Gate

We enter the Citadel at Mycenae through the Lion Gate, flanked by bastions on either side. In the relieving triangle is the famous carving of two lions, one on either side of a central column; the heads, which were carved separately and attached with the aid of dowels, are missing. This symbol of religiously based royal authority is a theme found on Cretan seals, here enlarged to monumental proportions.

Palace

From the ramp beyond the Lion Gate at Mycenae a path runs uphill on the left to the badly ruined Palace, over which a Greek temple of Athena was built in the seventh century B.C. The most important parts of the palace lie on the south side - a courtyard approached by a stone staircase of Mycenaean date which has been preserved, and the throne-room and megaron of the rulers of Mycenae. In the center of the megaron is the circular sacred hearth. From here there are fine views of the Argolid.

Going downhill towards the east, we see on the right, built against the citadel walls, the House of Columns. Beyond this is the east bastion, with a sally-port and the entrance to a secret underground cistern. This area of the citadel is part of the extensions carried out in the 13th century B.C. Returning to the entrance along the north side of the walls, we pass the North Gate. Lower down the hill can be seen a number of store-rooms with pottery jars for provisions.

Royal Graves

Inside the gateway at Mycenae is the Grave Circle found by Schliemann, which originally lay outside the walls. It was only during the extension of the walls in the 13th century B.C. that the tombs were enclosed within a double ring of stone slabs; the funerary stelae were then set up on a higher level, and the grave circle became a shrine devoted to the cult of the dead. In the six shaft graves to be seen in the excavated area there were found the remains of nine men, eight women and two children, accompanied by numerous gold grave goods. The recently discovered Grave Circle B is dated to the late 17th century B.C.; this Grave Circle A found by Schliemann dates from some time after 1580 B.C. The fact that no more shaft graves were constructed and that tholos tombs then came into favor points to a change of dynasty; and indeed ancient traditions spoke of the descendants of the original founder, Perseus (the Perseids), being succeeded by the descendants of Pelops (the Pelopids or Atreids).

Beyond Grave Circle A are a number of other buildings, including the South House, the House of the Warrior Vase and Tsountas's House (named after the Greek archeologist who excavated it).

Treasury of Atreus

On the left of the road which runs up from the village of Mykínes to the site is the famous tholos tomb known (without any historical warrant) as the "Treasury of Atreus" or the "Tomb of Agamemnon".

A dromos 36m/118ft long leads to a doorway 10.5m/34ft high, with a massive lintel 8.5m/28ft long, 5m/16ft wide and 1.2m/4ft thick which is estimated to weigh 120 tons. On either side of the doorway were half-columns of greenish stone, remains of which are now in the National Archeological Museum in Athens; traces of the column bases and sockets for fixing them in place can still be seen. Above the doorway is a relieving triangle, originally covered with a carved stone slab. The interior is circular, with a diameter of 14.5m/48ft and a height of 13.2m/43ft. It is roofed with a false vault formed of overlapping courses of stone and originally decorated with bronze rosettes. The main chamber was designed for cult purposes; the actual tomb chamber is to the right. The tomb is an impressive example of Mycenaean architectural skill: its dimensions were exceeded only by the Pantheon in Rome, built in the A.D. second century.
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