Texas' Most Scenic Road Trip Offers Beautiful Mountain Views Near Big Bend National Park

If you've spent time driving in Texas, your first impression may be miles of taillights. However, if you venture out to the open roads of West Texas near Big Bend National Park, your experience will be as different as night and day. Miles of scenic vistas, the rolling hills of the Chihuahuan Desert, and views of the Rio Grande await along a quiet section of Farm-to-Market (FM) Road 170, also known as the River Road or El Camino del Rio in Spanish.

FM 170 stretches for about 115 miles across the southwestern corner of Texas from the tiny town of Study Butte on the edge of Big Bend National Park to Candelaria. One particularly scenic section of this road is a 49-mile-long stretch between the two Texas border towns of Lajitas and Presidio, where the road rises, falls, and snakes through mountainous canyons in Big Bend Ranch State Park and past low-profile border towns on the Texas-Mexico border. 

If you're making the trip to drive the River Road, you've got a long drive ahead of you. From Dallas, it's nearly 9 hours, and Houston is 10 hours away. Midland International Air & Space Port (MAF) and El Paso International Airport (ELP) are commercial flight options for reaching the region. Depending on your route, stop in Marathon, Marfa, or Alpine for fuel and a bite to eat, and keep your tank topped up, as services are widely spaced. You don't need to enter Big Bend National Park to drive FM 170, but if you add a park visit, the standard entrance fee is $30 per private vehicle.

West Texas is often imagined as a vast, dry desert; however, along the River Road, you'll spot shades of color. Desert grasses, spring wildflowers, and mesquite trees are intermixed with towering rock formations, creating a kaleidoscope of natural beauty for your eyes. Just outside of the town of Study Butte, you can explore the mining-era ruins of Terlingua, an underrated ghost town. 

You'll likely want to turn your head as you drive along FM 170; however, it's a better idea to stop at one of the pull-offs along the side of the road to take in the scenery and deep blue skies. One of the most popular stops is well-known amongst movie buffs. Along the route, you'll pass the site of the former Contrabando movie set used to portray fictional Western towns in John Sayles' 1996 film "Lone Star" and in the "Lonesome Dove" series. Also, the "Dom Rock" from the cult classic movie "Fandango," starring Kevin Costner, is just a short walk away from the road. If you decide to hop out and leave the air-conditioned comfort of your vehicle, note that summer temperatures frequently exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit. While there are pull-offs for enjoying the sights, sections of the road are narrow and winding, with limited shoulders. Drivers in bigger vehicles, including trucks towing RVs and motorhomes, should be especially cautious around the Big Hill, which has a 15% grade outside of Lajitas. Just take it slow and enjoy the drive. Also, check the weather forecast before driving; even though the River Road is in the desert, summertime flash floods aren't uncommon in West Texas. 

A drive through this part of Texas may put you on the edge of civilization. That being said, you'll find plenty of everyday comforts in the small towns dotting the way. The small resort town of Lajitas is well known for its world-class golf course and spa, as well as its mayor, a goat. If you're feeling a bit hungry or need a caffeine fix (or are not prepared to go without for a little over an hour), swing by Boardwalk Bakery & Pizzeria at the resort. In addition to pizza, the restaurant serves sandwiches, salads, and breakfast. 

At the other end of civilization in the small border town of Presidio, you'll find no shortage of Mexican cuisine. El Changarrito is a popular spot for authentic tacos. If you're hitting the road early in the morning, The Sage serves up buttery pancakes, build-your-own breakfast burritos, and other breakfast bites. Another stop near Presidio is Fort Leaton State Historic Site, where you can explore a restored fortified trading post and exhibits about the region's history. Once you're through town and near the U.S.-Mexico border, hang a right on US 67, and in an hour you'll be welcomed back into civilization (and the 70s) by old-school Marfa. Drivers set to explore every last mile of FM 170 can continue through the small, dusty towns before reaching the literal end of the road in Candelaria.

The roads aren't the only thing that's different in this part of the state. If you do make it out to this quiet corner of Texas, you'll also be rewarded with amazing views at night. Consider camping out at Big Bend Ranch State Park, where the stars light up some of the darkest night skies in the state.