An Under-The-Radar Southeast Asian Train Offers An Affordable Journey With Scenic Views

Southeast Asia's dizzying megacities, breathtaking landscapes, and cultural sites make the region a must-visit for adventurous travelers. For a truly unique experience, hop on Indonesia's luxurious Argo Wilis train across the island of Java to see Southeast Asia's largest and most diverse country from the comfort of your seat. Despite not making the cut for the most scenic train rides in the world, according to experts, many travelers out there — myself included — consider it an unforgettable journey.

Java is the world's most populated island, home to 150 million people packed into an area the size of North Carolina. Yes, the island is incredibly crowded and busy, but away from the cities, it has stunning natural and cultural wonders that draw a more intrepid type of traveler. From the Javanese heritage in the sultanate of Yogyakarta, to the colonial architecture and garden-like streets in Bandung, to the budget-friendly luxuries in Surabaya, the island is rich with history and beauty. The Argo Wilis train route cuts through the center of the island and serves as a gateway to each of these destinations, while revealing Java's authentic side with each passing mile. Think densely populated cities and quaint villages separated by mountain passes, rice fields, and lush forests. The train also offers a sampling of local Indonesian cultures and foods that the archipelago is well-known for. 

Indonesia is one of the world's most affordable countries to visit, and train travel provides opportunities to stretch your budget and see it all. Executive class tickets on the Argo Wilis are similar to a premium economy class airplane seat and cost 680,000 Rupiah, equivalent to about $40 USD. If you're ready to splurge, tickets in the luxurious glass-enclosed panoramic car, featuring a partial glass ceiling and a free meal, are 1.25 million Rupiah, approximately $75 USD.

If you're taking the Argo Wilis along the entire 10-hour route, you'll start your trip in the morning from Bandung Station or Surabaya Gubeng Station. You'll want to arrive at the station a bit early to break down larger bills if you don't use an Indonesian e-wallet, pick up a few snacks at the minimart in the station, and get your boarding pass from the kiosk. Once you board, make sure your camera is charged and ready, as the scenic landscapes will roll by soon after you depart. If you are planning to snap photos or take videos of the whole trip, note that it frequently rains in the late afternoons, especially during the wet season from October to April.

You can often book executive tickets last minute. However, panoramic trains will often sell out in advance around weekends and local holidays. If you're ready to lock in your trip, tickets are available on Traveloka about six weeks in advance for both seat types. Alternatively, you can purchase them from an Indomaret or Alfamart kiosk in the major cities once you arrive in Indonesia. 

Across both types of cars, your seat will have two European-style power outlets, a folding tray table, and access to bathrooms. Above the seat, you'll find space to store your luggage and "oleh-oleh," the Indonesian term for souveniers. Just be sure to bring a jacket — previous passengers warn that the air conditioning is kept on full blast.

In addition to the beautiful views, the Argo Wilis — or any long-distance train in Indonesia — offers a front-row seat to the country's significant progress over the past several decades. Trains are typically clean, safe, orderly, and punctual, with opportunities to try authentic Indonesian food and experience the local culture. Options in the dining car include fried chicken and steak, but you can never go wrong with "nasi goreng Parahyangan," or Indonesian fried rice. It's relatively easy to get by as an English speaker in Indonesia, but learning a few phrases in the local language can be extremely useful during international vacations. From personal experience, many Indonesians are incredibly friendly and eager to practice their English, but they may be too shy to start the conversation.

If you really want to travel like a local, as I did during my Peace Corps service in West Java nearly a decade ago, opt for the economy seats. The new generation of premium economy seats may be air-conditioned and have access to power outlets, but like plane tickets, prices rise as tickets are sold. Even if you buy your ticket around the departure date, an economy seat will still likely cost less than the price of lunch at any airport in the US.