Texas' Underrated Destination Near Big Bend National Park Is Now A Unique Ghost Town

Imagine stumbling upon dozens of abandoned buildings in the middle of the desert. That is what it feels like to arrive in Terlingua, a small town in southwest Texas near the Mexican border. Despite its humble reputation, Terlingua stands out for sitting incredibly close to Big Bend National Park and offering a mix of history, desert landscapes, and outdoor adventure.

The town began as a mining hub that boomed during World War I. After the industry collapsed, the population dropped to just 25 people by 1994. Today, roughly 170 people live here, and tourism has brought new life to the area. The west entrance to Big Bend National Park lies just 10 minutes away, while Big Bend Ranch State Park is about two hours west. The area offers dozens of hiking trails through sunbaked canyons and along Terlingua Creek, which runs along the town's eastern edge.

In addition to the town's preserved history, visitors come for the surrounding parks, wildlife, and wide-open desert. The vast sky is especially beautiful at night, and Big Bend is one of the best US national parks for stargazing. The McDonald Observatory, operated by the University of Texas, is located in the largest International Dark Sky Reserve in the world, roughly two hours from Terlingua. Visitors can glimpse into the massive telescope and learn about ongoing stellar research. Meanwhile, Big Bend Ranch State Park boasts an equally stellar reputation for low light pollution, and is among the best Dark Sky state parks in Texas.

Terlingua's story begins with mercury mining. The surrounding canyons contain cinnabar, an ore that can be processed into quicksilver, also known as mercury. In the late 1800s, small mining operations began to develop in the area. The industry expanded rapidly during World War I. Chisos Mining Company purchased many of the local mines and scaled up production. It became one of the largest quicksilver producers in the country, growing the town's population to roughly 1,000 people. At the time, mercury was essential for products like lamps, batteries, and switches.

The boom did not last. After the war, demand for mercury declined. The mining company eventually went bankrupt, and because nearly everyone depended on it, the town emptied out. Families left in search of work, and Terlingua became a true ghost town. In recent decades, tourism has slowly revived the area. Its location between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park has made it a base for travelers exploring West Texas.

Many structures from the mining era still stand today. Unlike the gold mining city of Grass Valley in northern California, which has turned its history into a ticketed tourist attraction, visitors can roam the ruins for free in Terlingua. The mining company owner's crumbling mansion overlooks the town, and remains of the mining facilities still stand today. The Terlingua landscape is also home to another kind of ghost. About 100 million years ago, this region was covered by an ancient sea. Fossils are still visible on canyon walls and rocks. Some visitors report finding fossils and traces of prehistoric marine life scattered across the terrain.

A visit to Terlingua is not complete without stopping at the Terlingua Trading Company. It occupies the town's old post office and serves as both a shop and a gathering place. Many other original buildings still stand, along with the old, picturesque cemetery that every year is set aglow with candles and "ofrendas" for Dia de los Muertos. Another key stop is the Starlight Theatre. Built in the 1930s, the former theater is now the most popular restaurant in town. The menu includes chili, a nod to the long-running Terlingua Chili Cook-Off. The chili cook-off has taken place every year since 1967, usually in the fall. The four-day event features classic barbecue fare, ribs, black-eyed peas, margaritas, live music, and dancing.

Terlingua offers a range of places to stay, including campgrounds, an RV park, and vacation rentals. Adventure Terlingua offers luxurious glamping tents and bubble-style domes up on the hills overlooking the town. For a historic stay, head to the Chisos Mining Co. Motel, the oldest continuously operating guest lodge in the county. 

Getting to Terlingua requires some planning. The easiest route is to fly into El Paso International Airport. From there, rent a car and drive close to five hours to reach the town. A car is essential, as public transportation is not available and distances between destinations are long. Timing your visit right is also important. Summers can be extremely hot with unforgiving desert sun. Spring, especially from February through April, offers the most comfortable weather. Visit in March for the best views of wildflowers in bloom. Fall is another good option — temperatures begin to cool, and the weather becomes more manageable for hiking and exploring.