Rick Steves Calls This Gorgeous Town In Portugal 'Postcard-Perfect'
It's easy to get lost in a checklist of things to do on vacation. Double that when you're traveling overseas. It's a long trip, and you want to make the most out of your time, but there is value in a relaxed day or two where you simply take time to let the experience wash over you. The lovely city of Óbidos in Portugal is the perfect place for that. It's a city that travel pro Rick Steves praises for its beauty, and for good reason. On his website, Steves tells us, "Postcard-perfect Óbidos sits atop a hill, its 14th-century wall corralling a bouquet of narrow lanes and flower-bedecked whitewashed houses." The government of the city doesn't allow development, so this, he says, is a great place for the perfect picture. Óbidos can be a day trip from Lisbon, but stay overnight to get the full experience. You can even stay in the town's castle. There is a special liqueur to drink out of edible cups, a charmingly-decorated church, and you can actually walk along the walls.
The closest airport to Óbidos is Lisbon Portela Airport, around 50 miles away. From there, you'll go to Campo Grande station, which is less than 3 miles from the airport. To make the journey, you can take a taxi, town car, or the Line 2713 bus. From Campo Grande, you take an hour-long bus ride to Óbidos from Terminal 2, operated by Rodoviária do Oeste. The air-conditioned bus stops right outside the walls. However, you have to purchase the tickets from the driver right on the bus. There are trains as well, but they don't run as often. You can also drive from Lisbon, though there is a toll road. You'll find parking outside the walls.
Things to do in Óbidos, Portugal, as per Rick Steves
Part of the joy of visiting Óbidos is not rushing around to hit a million hotspots and tourist attractions. There are things to see, but it's also about the experience of wandering the streets with houses whitewashed to perfection, feeling like a time traveler. As you walk along the almost mile-long wall, you'll have a view of not only the picturesque countryside, but Óbidos itself. You can imagine yourself as a 14th-century guard, walking the walls to protect the town. However, make sure you're steady on your feet and have good walking shoes, as the stones are often uneven and there is no rail. It's an ideal spot for picture-taking, though keep your eyes open. Steves says a number of his friends have had their cameras stolen while traveling. That said, Portugal is considered one of the safest countries in Europe, so just take normal precautions. Make sure you also go through the main gate, the Porta da Vila (pictured above) with its lovely altar made with blue and white stone. Sometimes someone will be playing music there as well.
One thing you can't afford to skip (and may add to your leisurely relaxation) is a sample of Ginjinha d'Óbidos. This is a delectable liqueur made with sour cherries in aguardente, a strong Portuguese spirit. The best part is that it's served in small chocolate cups that you can eat when you're done. You can find stands for this drink along the main shopping street, the Rua Diereita. It runs from the castle to the gate, and it's full of charming shops and little cafés. It's also worth visiting the pretty and cozy 16th-century Church of Saint Mary with elaborately-painted ceilings and walls.
Where to stay in Óbidos, Portugal
Óbidos can be busy, particularly in August, according to Steves, and many people make it a day trip. However, if you stay overnight, you can also enjoy it when it's less crowded in the morning and evening. One place you may want to stay is The Literary Man Hotel, which was once a convent. There are 27 rooms, and it's the largest literary hotel in the world. Along the walls you'll see books galore. In fact, there are over 100,000 of them. At the time of this writing, rooms start around $110 a night. The hotel also has a Japanese Kamado restaurant with meat, fish, and vegetarian options. If books are your thing, stop by the São Tiago Church Bookstore in a former 12th-century church.
The city of Óbidos was a traditional wedding gift from the King to the Queen of Portugal starting in the 13th century, including its storybook Medieval castle. Today, the castle is a hotel, though you have to be staying there to take a tour. You can stay in the castle proper, or the Castle House, which is a bit less fancy. At the time of this writing, rooms in the house start at a bit under $400 a night, so this one may be a splurge. They also have a restaurant inside with dishes like scallops with creamy lemon and crispy rice, and sirloin steak with wild potatoes and an apple and fennel salad. Finally, whether you're staying in Óbidos overnight or visiting for a day, make sure your next stop is Nazaré, Portugal's "big wave capital," with lovely streets and great seafood. It's about 25 miles away, and well worth the trip.