Rick Steves' Favorite Lake Como Towns And Villas For An Idyllic Italian Getaway

There are few places more evocative than Lake Como in northwestern Italy. Walking along the water, through the villas, or down the streets of this region can make you feel like you've traveled back through time. Travel pro Rick Steves describes the place on his website, saying, "In this romantic region, wistful 19th-century villas are overgrown with old vines that seem to ache with stories to tell. Stunted palm trees appear to be held against their will in this northern location. And vistas are made-to-order for poets." While he says that all the lakes in the area are charming destinations, his favorite is Lake Como, and it's easy to see why. This slim and branching lake near the Alps is full of luxury, beauty, and breathtaking views. It's lovely all year, but you may want to consider a trip to Lake Como during shoulder season when prices drop and many tourists retreat to their homes. Whenever you go, Steves has recommendations for the best towns and villas to visit. His favorite towns are the Bellagio, also known as the "pearl of the lake," and the pastel-drenched Varenna, with Villa Carlotta and Villa del Balbianello taking his top spots for stately villas to visit.

To get to Lake Como, which is around 80 miles from Milan, you have a few options. You can fly into one of Milan's three airports: Malpensa, Linate, and Milan-Bergamo. From Malpensa, you can take the Malpensa Express train to Como city. From Linate, you can take a direct train to Como, and from Bergamo, you can take public transport to Varenna. From there, you can take the ferry to Bellagio if you want to hit both towns. You can also take the train from Milan Centrale Station or Milan Nord Cadorna to Como's two stations, or directly to Varenna.

The lovely town of Bellagio is right at the juncture of the southern legs of Lake Como. As Steves says of the place, "The most famous town is Bellagio, the self-proclaimed "Pearl of the Lake" — a combination of old-world classiness and new-world luxury." One pretty spot to enjoy in the town is the Gardens of Villa Melzi, once the home of the vice president of the Italian Republic. Here, you can wander through the trees and flowers and forget the rest of the world. At the time of this writing, adults can enter for under $12, and kids under 12 are free. You can even walk there in around 20 minutes from the Bellagio pier if you're taking a ferry in. 

If you want to spend more time outdoors, there are several hikes, including the Makallé Loop, which takes around two hours with a bit of a climb. It starts near San Giovanni, close to the town center, with pretty docks and architecture. Of course, Bellagio's town center, Il Borgo, looks like it comes right out of a movie, with cobblestone streets, and plenty of opportunities for boutique shopping. It's also worth visiting La Punta Spartivento, a park with views of the Alps. Do note that there are lots of steps in town (and most of the areas around the lake), so wear comfortable shoes, especially walking up the stairs of Salita Serbelloni for the perfect vista.

Though Steves enjoys Bellagio, he says, "my ideal Lake Como home is Varenna." This little town has fewer than 1,000 residents and sits on the eastern (and less developed) side of the lake. Steves mentions the pastel houses and, perhaps more importantly, the fact that there are no streets and only "characteristic stepped lanes." He recommends wandering the promenade along the lake that takes you to the town center. It's called the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, and it couldn't be more scenic. As the red-gated path moves along, you can see the glistening lake, leading to the Riva Grande waterfront and its colorful houses and flowers, which is the perfect spot for photos (and maybe engagements if you're so inclined).

In the old town center, you'll find the early 14th-century Church of San Giorgio. You can marvel at its rose window, and the Lombardy architecture, with sweeping arches and simple style. If you walk south a bit, you can visit Fiumelatte, a small hamlet with a tiny river that only flows from spring until early fall, and a nearby view of Bellagio. 

If your legs are up to it, take a hike from the Piazza San Giorgio to Vezio Castle. It's steep, but absolutely worth it. The medieval castle itself features incredible plaster sculptures and artifacts to explore inside. You must pay a visit to the gardens of Villa Monastero or check out the 19th-century interior, though Steves has other favorites.

One of Steves' favorite villas is the Villa Carlotta, which he recommends seeing in the spring. The late 17th century villa on the lake was built by the Marquis of Milan, although it has changed through several hands since. It's even been owned by Princess Marianne of Prussia. Tickets are around $17 for adults at the time of this writing, with pricing for seniors, students, children, and families. The ticket covers the Botanical Garden and the museum, and it's an experience that you cannot miss.

There are several gardens contained within the Botanical Gardens, with citrus tunnels to walk through, and the Italian Garden that has been here as long as the villa. You'll see hedge sculptures, geometric layouts, and pretty stairs (again, bring good walking shoes) along the way. You can also enjoy the roses and camellias, and even rock gardens covered in blooming flowers and succulents like cactus and agave.

The museum inside the villa is two floors, and it's full of the collections curated by Giovanni Battista Sommariva, including the Francesco Hayez painting, Romeo and Juliet's Last Kiss from 1823, and the private (and very pink) rooms of Princess Charlotte, the daughter of Princess Marianne.  You can walk through the pale blue marble hall, featuring statues and friezes, and the plaster models room, with the sculpture of the Muse Terpsichore from 1811. The Hall of Palamedes looks like something out of a fairy tale with wall friezes, a statue of Palamedes, and a beautiful geometrically-patterned marble floor. The Hall of Cupid and Psyche features the famous couple's statue, while the tapestry room features lovely woven works.

Not far from Villa Carlotta is Steves' ultimate favorite villa, Villa del Balbianello, on the shores of the left "leg" of the lake. On his website, Steves says, "the dreamiest estate is Villa del Balbianello, which perches on a promontory near the village of Lenno and was featured in the movies 'Casino Royale' and 'Star Wars: Episode II.'" He tells us that it was built on the site of a Franciscan church at the end of the 18th century, and says the garden and loggia is absolutely worth seeing. Tickets are a bit over $25, and it's open from March through January, but closed on Monday and Wednesday. You can even bring your leashed dog with you to the garden.

At the villa you'll find several buildings including a church and the ornate loggia, and you can take a guided tour. Inside you'll find lovely furniture, sculptures, artifacts, and paintings on glass. If you'd like to visit the site of the "Star Wars: Episode II — Attack of the Clones" scene where Anakin and Padmé kiss, you can take the path from the left of the loggia. Underneath the same loggia is the spot where James Bond kisses Vesper Lynd in "Casino Royale." What could be more tragically romantic?

While you're visiting Lake Como, don't skip Villa d'Este, which is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but a luxury hotel that boasts impressive rooms, suites, and private villas to make you feel like royalty. After all, Steves does tell us, "While you can visit Italy's lakes as a day trip from Milan, I recommend spending the night. You'll really feel the romance of Europe." You can even take a bit of that romance home with you, as a few towns around Lake Como actually sell canned air from the region.