Rick Steves Thinks Europe's Oldest City Is The Most Enjoyable Destination In Bulgaria
You may not be able to set foot in a time machine, but traveling to Europe opens the door to ancient civilizations and humanity's past. Travel guru Rick Steves has passed through these doors of time for decades, criss-crossing Europe corner to corner to recommend incredible, off-the-radar destinations to explore. While you'll likely have Athens and its incredible museums on your radar, one of the continent's oldest countries, Bulgaria, may not be — yet. Bulgaria, according to Steves, is "eastern Europe's best-kept secret" and bursting with history. Bulgaria sits at the crossroads of several empires, including the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires, and is where the Cyrillic alphabet was created just before the ninth century. Later, Bulgaria was influenced by the Russian Empire and the USSR. To dive into this fascinating country, Steves recommends visiting the country's "most enjoyable city," and Europe's oldest, Plovdiv, named one of two "European Capitals of Culture" in 2019.
Plovdiv was founded nearly 8,000 years ago and was known as Philippopolis, being named for King Philip II of Macedon. Throughout the city's long history, it has been invaded and sacked by 10 empires, including the Huns, Persians, and even the Celts. While walking around the city, you'll see a wide range of architecture, ranging from Soviet-style apartments to ancient Roman ruins. Two must-see spots are the city's ancient theater and the stadium of Philippopolis, located in Old Town.
Plovdiv is located in south-central Bulgaria, approximately two hours from Bulgaria's capital, Sofia. While you can hop on a train, locals recommend taking a bus from Sofia. Trains are also an option and may be cheaper; however, buses are normally faster. Plovdiv International Airport is only served by budget carriers Wizz Air and Ryanair.
Plovdiv's charming Old Town
Like Ancient Rome, Plovdiv was also a city built on seven hills. Three of these hills – Taksim Tepe, Dzhambaz Tepe, and Nebet Tepe – hold the core of Plovdiv's Old Town, where you'll see centuries of Bulgarian history and local architecture that traces the country's past. As you walk along Dzhumaya Square, you'll catch a glimpse of the city's own version of the Colosseum, which featured gladiator battles. Take your time (and save your ankles) strolling down rugged cobblestone streets in Old Town. You can blast through in less than an hour; however, opt to go with a local to get the city's full story. Rick Steves notes that Bulgarians are fiercely proud of their heritage and history and will warmly share their country with visitors. One local agency, Free Plovdiv Tour, offers daily walking tours in English, starting at 11 a.m. According to Guruwalk, the tour has a 4.81-star rating from over 400 total visitors, as of this writing.
Though, according to Steves, Bulgaria doesn't make the cut for having one of the best cafe cultures in Europe, you'll still find a handful of cafes to unwind and take in the scenery from. Head over to pedestrian-friendly streets Hristo Dyukmedzhiev or Zagreb in the maze-like neighborhood Kapana ("The Trap" in Bulgarian) for a coffee break or a bite to eat in one of the neighborhood's many establishments. During the summer months, you may want to visit Cafe Arena, as it has gorgeous views overlooking the city and Plovdiv's Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis. The theater often has performances at night, and if you're lucky, you may just find a spot to sip and enjoy the show.
Enjoy a day out in Plovdiv
If you're looking for a pleasant way to spend the afternoon or evening, grab your favorite book and head for Tsar Simeon Park, a showpiece of Plovdiv. Spend the afternoon in the lungs of the city, hopping from cafe to cafe or taking in the scenery. You'll likely see families out on walks or the elderly dancing or crowding around a chess match. The park was first constructed in 1892 and is surrounded by cafes and bars. Politico and Zizzi are great places for a beverage, while Central Park serves up local food with a twist in a comfy environment. At 9:30 p.m. during weekends in the summer, you'll find the park's "singing fountains" put on a wonderful performance with little crowding or strict rules, unlike at the Trevi Fountain.
Rick Steves notes that Bulgaria has made immense changes since his first visit to the country in the 1980s. Near the Old Town, you'll find major Western hotel chains, including a Ramada, as well as fashionable and charming four- and five-star boutique hotels for under $150 a night (even during the peak summer months). Despite joining the European Union and now facing the West instead of the East, Bulgaria is still one of the poorest countries in Europe and had the lowest GDP per capita in the EU overall in 2022 (via Bulgarian National Television). If you're looking to stretch your travel funds even further, don't miss spending a few days in budget-friendly Sofia. Redditors note that younger Bulgarians speak some English; however, it's always a good idea to learn a few Bulgarian phrases or the Cyrillic alphabet to make your travels easier and more rewarding. Additionally, Steves has excellent advice about how to appreciate ancient tourist sites, without having to dive into a textbook.