Rick Steves Says This Serene Village Along Italy's Lake Como 'Oozes Romance'

For many people, there is nothing more romantic than a trip to Italy. However, once you get to the major cities, you might find yourself lost in a sea of tourists. If you're looking for a quieter getaway for a proposal, honeymoon, anniversary, or just a celebration of romance, you may want to look at the village of Varenna, according to travel pro Rick Steves. On his website, Steves says, "On Italy's Lake Como, Varenna whispers luna di miele (honeymoon). This village oozes romance. ... Varenna has a romantic promenade, a tiny harbor, and narrow lanes. You'll pass wisteria-drenched villas, evocative vistas, and lakeside lovers embracing the moment." He shares that this town, on the side of the lake that's visited by few tourists and quiets down in the evenings, is a place to slow down and simply experience the moment. "It's places like this where I really feel the romance of Europe," he writes. Imagine sitting at a cafe with a glass of wine and some delicious food, simply enjoying each other's company and watching the world go by. It doesn't get better than this.

Varenna sits on the eastern side of Lake Como, slightly north of where it splits into two "legs." It's around 57 miles from Milano Malpensa Airport, 49 miles from Milan Linate Airport, and 39 miles from Milan Bergamo Airport, or, if you rent a car, it's around 47 miles away from Milan proper. However, you can also take a train operated by Trenitalia or Italotreno to the Varenna Esino station, which is less than half a mile from the city center. There are several buses that will take you there as well. 

Places to stay and dine in Varenna, per Rick Steves

There are plenty of beautiful and frequently visited towns around Lake Como, which is one of Italy's top tourist destinations, but Rick Steves says that his "ideal Lake Como home is Varenna." It's about 15 minutes from Bellagio, with fewer than 1,000 residents, and it packs a lot of beauty into a small place. There are no streets in old town, but quaint lanes instead. Steves also mentions taking a romantic walk along the Lover's Promenade, or passerella, which is a lakeside lane from the old town to the ferry dock with trees arching overhead and a charming red railing along the side. All the lovely buildings are protected, and residents have to ask permission to do things like change the color, Steves explains on his TV show.

The travel expert has a couple of suggestions for where to stay in Varenna, including the Villa Cipressi. This villa, which was privately owned until 1980, was built between the 15th and 19th centuries and has a gorgeous botanical garden that you can visit, even if you're not staying there — it's around $12 to enter the grounds. Villa Cipressi has a relaxation spa for hotel guests as well. You can even get married there. If you're hungry, dine at the villa's Restaurant Visteria overlooking the lake or the Victoria Grill in the town's main square. There are also three bars, including Bar Giardino next to the garden.

Another place Steves suggests as a romantic place to stay is Albergo Milano. Most rooms have a lake view, he explains, and this place, run by a married couple, is full of charm. The hotel's restaurant, La Vista, has dining right on the lake and a menu that changes often, using seasonal ingredients, with offerings for those with specific dietary requirements.

Things to do in Varenna on Lake Como

Varenna may be a quieter spot than some of the other towns on Lake Como, but there is still lots to do. (However, don't make the mistake of overbooking yourself when visiting Lake Como, no matter where you stay.) If you're visiting in the summer, consider stopping at Bau Bau Beach, which is dog-friendly if you're traveling with your pooch and good for swimming. One place you have to visit while you're in the village is the astonishingly beautiful Villa Monastero. It was once a Cistercian women's monastery constructed in the late 12th century and went through multiple owners. However, these days there is a House Museum that features elaborately decorated rooms with incredible furniture. The terraced botanical garden overlooking Lake Como is full of flowers, plants, and fountains, as well as temples, wells, and more — it has to be experienced to be believed. It's around $15 to visit the museum and garden and around $12 to visit the garden alone.

In the hills sits the millennia-old Vezio Castle, once a military outpost built by Queen Theodolinda. You can visit during the day, but you may want to make reservations for the aperitifs or evening events that they have on the castle terrace on Friday and Saturday evenings from June through September. You can visit the castle itself, climb the tower, explore the gardens, and see the artwork, including the ghost sculptures that dot the grounds. (Hours and open dates vary during the year.) Finally, if you're shopping for gifts to take home and the person you're shopping for has everything, you can purchase a unique souvenir in the form of Lake Como Air, which is actual air in a can that you can purchase locally in villages around the lake. 

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