Muktinath Route

Muktinath Route

The Muktinath route mainly follows the valley of the Kali Gandaki, which makes its way from the dry rain shadow area of Annapurna to the sub-tropical jungle. The valley of the Kali Gandaki is the deepest in the world, on the western side Dhaulagiri (8167 m (26,794 ft)), on the eastern side Annapurna (8091 m (26,545 ft)) both only 30 kilometres apart. The river has carved itself several thousand metres deep into the mountains. An ancient trading route follows the Kali Gandaki to Tibet. However after the Chinese invasion relations came to a standstill. The flourishing trade has been replaced by tourism. Guest houses and restaurants are extremely comfortable. Tourists, with their expensive equipment, bare footed sadhus and pilgrims on their way to Muktinath all mingle side by side. For the journey both ways, including rest days, at least two weeks should be allowed. The rest days are necessary to acclimatise and for exploring the upper part of the valley. The flight to Jomsom certainly saves the climb but in this case a pause should be made before continuing to Muktinath.

Good climbing shoes are essential for this walk. Strong winds and outbreaks of cold in the upper part of the Kali Gandaki Valley mean that a down jacket or windproof clothing are necessary.

This route can be undertaken throughout the year but the classic trekking times are preferable. In winter it is too cold above 2500 m (8000 ft).

From Pokhara it is an hour by jeep or taxi to Phedi (possible to walk). From here it is a high climb to Naudanda (1430 m (4692 ft)). An alternative route is via Sarangkot to Naudanda via Kaski. In Naudanda there are fine views of Pokhara and Lake Phewa. Past Kaare and Lumie the walk comes to Chandrakot (1550 m (5085 ft)), a pretty little village with views of Annapurna. From Chandrakot it descends into the valley of the Modi Khola which is crossed at a height of 1065 m (3494 ft). On the opposite bank lies Birethanti, a beautiful village which even has street cafés. The road from Pokhara soon reaches Birethanti and turns off to the south. Heading north it is joined by a footpath which leads over steep slopes and through rocky gorges making road building impossible. In Birethanti the path branches off to Ghandrung from where the Annapurna shrine can be reached. There are regular bus services between Pokhara and Birethanti; the trip takes about 2 hours.

The way along the Muktinath route continues north-west and after a considerable incline comes to Hille and Tirkhedungha (1525 m (5003 ft)); both places have overnight accommodation. From Tirkhedungha there is a steep path to Ulleri (2073 m (6801 ft)), a large Magar village. The route continues through beautiful oak and rhododendron woods to Bahunthanti (2250 m (7381 ft)) and Nayanthi (2460 m (8071 ft)). After an hour it comes to Ghorapani (2775 m (9104 ft)).

Beyond Ghorapani is the Deorali pass.

About an hour from Ghorapani is Poon Hill (3200 m (10,498 ft)), one of the most famous viewing points in the Himalayas. It is easily accessible: from Pokhara it only takes three days, whilst from the Annapurna Circle to the High Manang and Mount Everest it is at least three times the distance.

The route climbs steeply to Chitre (2390 m (7841 ft)), Sikha (1980 m (6496 ft)) and Ghara (1705 m (5593 ft)) where it crosses the Ghar Khola. The mountains here are extensively terraced. Just before Tatopani is the valley of the Kali Gandaki where the route crosses on the west side and follows it north. In Tatopani (1198 m (3930 ft)) there are hot springs near the river. The concreted pool is often crowded but a bath in the hot water with the river and mountains close by is quite an experience. The locals use the less well known springs in Ratopani, about 15 minutes south on the way to Beni. There is a quiet lodge here with basic accommodation.

Beyond Tatopani is Dana (1400 m (4593 ft)) where a difficult route branches off to the base camp which Maurice Herzog used to climb Annapurna in 1950. Just beyond Dana past the waterfall of Rukse Chhara it crosses the gorge at a narrow steep spot. Ghasa (2000 m (6561 ft)) soon comes into sight, the first historic Thakali village on the route with a chorten at the entrance to the village and a small gompa. The flat roofs are a sign of the low level of rainfall here. The Thakali, known to be shrewd traders and businessmen, have their traditional settlements in the Kali Gandaki Valley. Yet their well run hotels and businesses are also to be found in and around Pokhara and other tourist regions. The administrative district of Mustang, which was closed off above Kagbeni until 1992, begins in Ghasa.

Following a steep climb Lete Khola is reached and then the Thakali villages of Lete (2470 m (8103 ft)) and Kalopani (2560 m (8399 ft)). The countryside changes as the luxuriant deciduous woods give way to pine woods which in turn are soon replaced by the sparse vegetation of the Tibetan plateau. From Lete, lying at its foot, there is a good view of Dhaulagiri.From Kalopani, which offers good accommodations and views, the route continues on both sides of the river. The route along the west bank takes in a chain of interesting villages, among them Larjung with interesting partly covered small alleys and Khobang with its gompa dominating the village which enjoys fine views of the mountains.

Tukuche (2590 m (8497 ft)) is one of the most important trading centers of the Thakali villages. Wool, salt and semi-precious stones were exchanged here for rice, cigarettes and cloth. Four privileged families with special governmental powers controlled the trade which finally died out with the Chinese takeover of Tibet. The businesslike Thakali have since sought their fortune in tourism. In Tukuche there are three gompas (the oldest dates from 1621) which have been in poor condition since the conversion of the Thakalis to Hinduism in the 19th c. In the centre of the town is the Mahakali Gompa and at the north end the Gompa Sarpa, which was once the centre of a large monastery. Tukuche is the first place to feel the wind in the Kali Gandaki Valley. It blows up to 21 hours a day drying out the area in the rain shadow of Annapurna which is already low in precipitation.

The small attractive village of Marpha (2665 m (8743 ft)) is tucked away behind a mountain ridge seeking protection from the wind. The Marphapas own a large part of the mule caravans found in the Kali Gandaki, whose cheerful bells can be heard from a long way off. Some of the best accommodation of the journey is to be found in the clean streets of Marpha; the well-known apple or peach brandy is also produced here. Possibly the tastiest apples in the world can be found at "Marpha Farm".

In Jomsom (2713 m (8900 ft)) is the (Nepalese) administrative centre of the Mustang region, which was closed to tourists until 1992. Together with a hospital, a military camp, a bank, many hotels and lodges there is a control post here where permits are checked. The Nepalese airline flies from Pokhara to Jomsom, but of three scheduled flights sometimes not a single one can operate as the strong winds in the Kali Gandaki Valley make landing impossible. The wind gets up between 10am and noon, lasting until the evening. Although the wind is from the south during the day it makes walking difficult. It is therefore advisable to stop in good time to turn off from the valley to Muktinath.

There are two possible routes to Muktinath. The longer and steeper, but more interesting, is through the village of Kagbeni (2810 m (9219 ft)), the gate to the kingdom of Mustang. This charming little town is a classic example of the architecture of the region. Stone houses with flat roofs are closely built in narrow alleys covered over in places. The gompa of Kagbeni stands on an exposed site, recognisable by its red colour. Unfortunately access to the shrine is forbidden to villagers and strangers since the theft of a religious symbol. Basic accommodation is available both at the entrance and in the centre of the town.

Straight past the first guest house in Kagbeni the route heads to the right to Muktinath and climbs steeply until it joins the simpler path before Khingar (3200 m (10,498 ft)). It soon comes to the interesting village of Jharkot and then Ranipowa (hotels and simple accommodation) just before Muktinath. The shrine at Muktinath is worth visiting.

There are short side treks off the Kali Gandaki into the unspoilt mountain countryside. For such a detour it is best to get a local guide who can advise on lodging and provisions as both are the walker's responsibility.

From Tukuche a relatively unused path runs via Tagung, Dhampu and Koketani back to the main route at Kalopani. This strenuous but beautiful route leads close to the Nilgiri South peak; good weather is essential.

Further on there is a walk to the Dhaulagiri icefalls.

It is an adventurous walk from Jomsom to the monastery of Thinigaun; the walk can be continued to the sacred Lake Tilicho. At Manang is the main stretch of the Annapurna Circle. A guide, physical fitness, good equipment and good weather are necessary for this trek. This walk can be continued on the Annapurna Circle to Thoring La and on the other side of the pass to Muktinath.

One can also follow the Kali Gandaki from Kagbeni northwards into the kingdom of Mustang. The necessary permits should be acquired beforehand in Kathmandu.

The Muktinath route can be combined with a walk to the Annapurna Sanctuary; from Ghorapani the junction is reached via Ghandrung.

In the lower part of the route there are many possible variations: Pokhara can be reached via Ghandrung and Dhampus, or follow the Kali Gandaki to Beni and Balgung. After a three day walk upstream Tansen is reached.