Annapurna Circle

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supplies are not needed. Light climbing shoes and a down jacket are essential.

The classic time to visit is October/November as the Thorong La can be crossed with certainty at this time. From January to March and mid-April the pass is unpassable, except for very experienced climbers. However, in the event of low precipitation the Thorong La is passable throughout the winter. Numerous trekkers and porters have died on Thorong La.

Unexpected snowfalls at Thoring La are fairly frequent. It is important to consider the climatic conditions and take a detour if uncertain. Owing to the great difference in height between Dumre and Thorong La it is vital to acclimatise properly. This also applies to the bearers.

A bus service operates from Kathmandu or Pokhara as far as Dumre, then a jeep or lorry to Bensisahar.

From Bensisahar (823 m (2700 ft)) the first two days are through typical hilly country inhabited by Gurungs and Hindus. First is the Khudi (790 m (2592 ft)) with fine views of the Himalchuli and Ngadi Chuli. The route more or less follows the main path and the Marsyangdi is a notable landmark for orientation which is crossed at Bhulbhule and beyond Ngadi. It is hot here in spring. Not until the region of Bhulbhule (825 m (2707 ft)) does the path begin to climb more steeply to Ngadi and Lampata (1135 m (3724 ft)) and Bahundanda (1310 m (4298 ft)). In Lampata and Bahundanda accommodation is available.

Beyond Bahundanda the narrow steep path leads through gorges with vertical walls. Once the path consisted of wooden boards cut into the rock on the right hand side. At Syange (1070 m (3510 ft)) it crosses the Marsyangdi River which it follows until Jagat. There are rice fields as far as Chamje (1433 m (4701 ft)).

Then the route follows a rocky tunnel through a mountain block, the result of a landslide, high into a wide floored valley. Here the village of Tal (1700 m (5577 ft)) is the first settlement of the Manang region. The path now climbs continuously with the landscape changing dramatically from pine woods to open meadows and into the dry rain shadow region. Dharapani (1890 m (6200 ft)) is the first village with its entrance and exit marked by a chorten, a typical feature of villages in north Nepal. Bagarchhap (2160 m (7087 ft)) consists of typical stone houses with flat roofs from which the relatively new Nyingma Gompa towers. At Kotoje the route passes a side valley in which the region of Nar Phu lies, one of the three traditional regions of Manang. It is forbidden to enter the area, a poster outlines the regulations. In the book "Cloud Dwellers of the Himalayas" life in Nar Phu is vividly documented. Shortly before Chame there is a good view of Annapurna (7937 m (26,040 ft)). There are two hot springs near the settlement. Chame (2685 m (8809 ft)) is the regional capital of the Manang region with the obligatory control posts, police station, bank and offices.

There are large apple plantations beyond Chame. Before Bratang the trail crosses the Marsyangdi. Until 1975 Bratang was controlled by the Khampa rebels. Travellers can find accommodation in the lower part of the village while the traditional village with its gompa is somewhat higher; the summit of the Pisang towers in the background. There is a wonderful view of Annapurna from up here. The alternative route to Manang starts behind the village. This is the beginning of the rain shadow area of Nyeshang, the traditional name for Manang. This dry strip extends at an average height of 3500 m (11,482 ft) over a distance of 20 km (12 mi.). Most walkers choose the faster route via Ongre. Ongre airport is known as Manang Village. Nearby there is a trekkers' aid post, a branch of a mountain climbing school.

The more difficult path is more attractive. Beginning at the upper village of Pisang, it crosses fields to Gyaru, via Ngawal into the picturesque village of Braga (3500 m (11,482 ft)) with its tightly packed stone houses, dominated by the Kargyü gompa. The tallest gompa in Manang is over 500 years old and houses many interesting religious symbols including 108 terracotta statues. On the other bank is the summit of the Chulu East (6059 m (19,879 ft)). On the mountain ridge between Braga and Manang is the Bodzo gompa which is still inhabited by monks.

Manang is the unofficial capital of the region. The views of the mountains are spectacular. Many trekkers stop here to rest and acclimatise for one day in preparation for the Thorong La Pass. Lodges and shops have opened up here but the prices are expensive; the Manang are not regarded as astute businessmen for nothing. Manang could be the destination of a shorter walk. There are short one-day walks in the surrounding area to the small glacier lake on the opposite bank, to the village of Khangsar 5 km (3 mi.) west of Manang or to the hill north of the town with fascinating views of Annapurna IV and II with the glacier.

There is an almost 2000 m (6561 ft) height difference between Manang and Thorong La. The route passes through Tengi and then follows the Jarsang Khola. The vegetation becomes increasingly sparse. Phedi lies at a height of 4420 m (14,501 ft) and has hotels and accommodation. However, in the high season when almost 100 trekkers a day are crossing Thorong La there are insufficient beds available. Phedi is the last town before the pass, the next stage should only be undertaken in good weather and if there are no problems with altitude sickness. The path from Phedi climbs steeply but is well walked and in good condition. The climb to the pass takes four hours and is marked by chorten and prayer flags. On the other side it is a 1600 m (5249 ft) descent down to Muktinath, which takes about three hours.

The seven remaining days of the walk from Muktinath via Jomsom to Pokhara follow the Jomsom Trek in the other direction.

The Annapurna Circle can be shortened on both sides. One possibility is to fly to Ongre where after acclimatising well the climb to Thorong La can begin. On the west side of Thorong La is Jomsom airport. From here the more straightforward part of the trek commences: the walk down the valley to Pokhara.