El Tajín 
How to get there
By air to Poza Rica and from there by car (about 15km/9.3mi); by bus from Veracruz to Papantla (about 4 hours), then by local bus service; by car from Mexico City, taking the MEX 85 towards Teoti-huancán, then the MEX 130 and 132 (the "Vanilla Route") via Tulancingo and Poza Rica to El Tajin (about 300km/186mi in all); from Veracruz, the MEX 180 via Nautla and Papantla (about 240km/149mi).
The ruined city of El Tajín lies surrounded by vanilla plantations in a hilly region where the warm, moist climate clothes everything in tropical green.
By air to Poza Rica and from there by car (about 15km/9.3mi); by bus from Veracruz to Papantla (about 4 hours), then by local bus service; by car from Mexico City, taking the MEX 85 towards Teoti-huancán, then the MEX 130 and 132 (the "Vanilla Route") via Tulancingo and Poza Rica to El Tajin (about 300km/186mi in all); from Veracruz, the MEX 180 via Nautla and Papantla (about 240km/149mi).
The ruined city of El Tajín lies surrounded by vanilla plantations in a hilly region where the warm, moist climate clothes everything in tropical green.
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Must-see attractions nearby:
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The archaeological zone covers some 11sq.km/41/4sq.mi, 40 per cent of which has been excavated in recent years. The city, with a population in its heyday of about 50,000 people, is one of the most important pre-Columbiann sites in Mexico.
History
For a long time the Totonacs were believed to have built El Tajín (Totonac: "lightning"), a view based largely on the fact that they inhabited the area at the time of the Spanish Conquest. The great city had however already been abandoned for at least 300 years before the Spanish arrived. It may originally have been a late Olmec or proto-Mayan settlement, set up in collaboration with the Huastecs. When founded, in around ad 200, its builders were evidently much influenced by Teotihuancán. It took until about ad 600 before an independent culture evolved. El Tajín's own influence then began to spread, in time being felt even in Teotihuancán. The city reached the peak of its development between ad 700 and 900.
The first major buildings, including the Pyramid of the Niches, date from the 4th and 5th centuries. There followed two phases of new building and superimposition of new structures on old, the first in El Tajín between the 6th and 8th centuries, the second in El Tajín Chico between the 9th and 12th centuries. From the 12th c. onwards the architecture becomes manifestly more Toltec in style. El Tajín ceased to exist as a city and cultural centre in about ad 1200, evidence of destruction and burning suggesting it may have been razed by the Toltecs. In the 15th c. the Totonacs inhabiting this part of Veracruz were subjugated by the Aztecs and forced to pay tribute.
In the centuries following the Spanish Conquest (1519-21) El Tajín initially failed to attract much attention. The first person to visit and describe the site was Diego Ruiz in 1785. Others to report later were the German Alexander von Humboldt (1811) and the Austrian W. Dupaix (1836). Systematic excavation only began in 1934 under the direction of the Mexican archaeologist José García Payón. His work was then continued by S. Jeffrey K. Wilkersen. Excavations carried out by I.N.A.H. since 1984 have to date uncovered a further 36
buildings; there are now, in total, 48 well-preserved buildings to be seen.
The style in which El Tajín is built (seen also at e.g. Yohualichán) is unique to this particular area; it is characterised by heavily receding cornices and window-like niches and recessed panels in the pyramid walls. Buildings were painted red, black or blue, occasionally with murals on the exterior.
The Ruins
El Tajín proper and El Tajín Chico are made up of several different areas on a number of levels: the Grupo Plaza del Arroyo; the Zona Central (with the Pyramid of the Niches); the Complejo de las Columnas (with the Building of the Columns); La Gran Greca; and La Gran Xicalcoiunqhui.
History
For a long time the Totonacs were believed to have built El Tajín (Totonac: "lightning"), a view based largely on the fact that they inhabited the area at the time of the Spanish Conquest. The great city had however already been abandoned for at least 300 years before the Spanish arrived. It may originally have been a late Olmec or proto-Mayan settlement, set up in collaboration with the Huastecs. When founded, in around ad 200, its builders were evidently much influenced by Teotihuancán. It took until about ad 600 before an independent culture evolved. El Tajín's own influence then began to spread, in time being felt even in Teotihuancán. The city reached the peak of its development between ad 700 and 900.
The first major buildings, including the Pyramid of the Niches, date from the 4th and 5th centuries. There followed two phases of new building and superimposition of new structures on old, the first in El Tajín between the 6th and 8th centuries, the second in El Tajín Chico between the 9th and 12th centuries. From the 12th c. onwards the architecture becomes manifestly more Toltec in style. El Tajín ceased to exist as a city and cultural centre in about ad 1200, evidence of destruction and burning suggesting it may have been razed by the Toltecs. In the 15th c. the Totonacs inhabiting this part of Veracruz were subjugated by the Aztecs and forced to pay tribute.
In the centuries following the Spanish Conquest (1519-21) El Tajín initially failed to attract much attention. The first person to visit and describe the site was Diego Ruiz in 1785. Others to report later were the German Alexander von Humboldt (1811) and the Austrian W. Dupaix (1836). Systematic excavation only began in 1934 under the direction of the Mexican archaeologist José García Payón. His work was then continued by S. Jeffrey K. Wilkersen. Excavations carried out by I.N.A.H. since 1984 have to date uncovered a further 36
buildings; there are now, in total, 48 well-preserved buildings to be seen.
The style in which El Tajín is built (seen also at e.g. Yohualichán) is unique to this particular area; it is characterised by heavily receding cornices and window-like niches and recessed panels in the pyramid walls. Buildings were painted red, black or blue, occasionally with murals on the exterior.
The Ruins
El Tajín proper and El Tajín Chico are made up of several different areas on a number of levels: the Grupo Plaza del Arroyo; the Zona Central (with the Pyramid of the Niches); the Complejo de las Columnas (with the Building of the Columns); La Gran Greca; and La Gran Xicalcoiunqhui.
Related Attractions
Building of the Columns
The Complejo de las Columnas, the highest section of the site, is dominated by the extraordinary Building of the Columns (Edificio de las Columnas or Palacio del Gobierno) standing on a mound 45 m (147 ft) in height and in part artificially raised. Glyphs discovered here recount the history of a ruler known as "13 rabbits", who probably lived in the 10th c. Once again niches are a major feature of the building, in this case decorated with meandering motifs. The cornices are so constructed as to appear to defy the laws of gravity. Equally astonishing is the fact that the solidly built stairway was apparently added purely for decoration, access to the upper chambers being by ladder. The creators of the building certainly possessed some unique skills, covering the roof, for example, with slabs made from a cement completely unknown elsewhere in Meso-America.
At the base of the structure can be seen the stumps of several huge columns 1.20 m (4 ft) in diameter. These were once part of a gallery running along the front of the building. The stumps are covered with bas-reliefs depicting warriors and priests, human sacrifices and hieroglyphs. Panels with cross-shaped reliefs embellish the east side of the upper storey. From the top of the building a magnificent view unfolds of the entire area.
At the base of the structure can be seen the stumps of several huge columns 1.20 m (4 ft) in diameter. These were once part of a gallery running along the front of the building. The stumps are covered with bas-reliefs depicting warriors and priests, human sacrifices and hieroglyphs. Panels with cross-shaped reliefs embellish the east side of the upper storey. From the top of the building a magnificent view unfolds of the entire area.
El Tajín Ruins Museum
There is a fine new museum near the site entrance where excavated finds are put on display, including rare drum-shaped columns. On Sunday mornings the "voladores" perform their flying act at the car park.
Plaza del Arroyo
Closest to the site entrance is the Plaza del Arroyo (Square of the Stream), surrounded by recently excavated pyramids. The finest of these structures, Edificio 16, was evidently over-built three times. Behind it two new ball courts (17/27 and 13/14) have been uncovered.
Pyramid of the Niches
Near the Pyramid of the Niches in the Zona Central stand Monuments II, III and IV. Monument II and the adjoining Monument V are of particular interest. The remarkable Pyramid of the Niches (Pirámide de los Nichos) rises to a height of 25 m (82 ft) on its square base, the sides of which are 35 m (115 ft) in length; the pyramid was dedicated to the Rain or Wind god.
Construction of the seven-storeyed pyramid (seven counting the temple at the top) began in the 4th c. and was probably completed in the 7th c. As is often the case with Old Indian buildings, it was superimposed on an older pyramid already there.
Each storey of the building is embellished on all four sides with a row of relatively shallow niches, square in shape and surrounded by a projecting stone "frame". The niches total 365 in all, symbolising the days of the year. At first it was thought they were intended to house figures, but archaeologists now believe their purpose was simply decorative. At one time the entire structure was clad in polychrome stucco, even the niches being painted in bright colours. The intention may perhaps have been to create a mystical effect using the interplay of light and shade. Up either side of the 10 m (33 ft)-wide stairway run broad alfardas (lateral balustrades) with a decorative stone mosaic of meandering fret design. The centre-line of the stairway is interrupted by five platforms, regularly spaced, each having three smaller niches. The stairway was a later, and almost certainly purely functional, addition.
From the plaza a track runs northwards to the Plaza El Tajín Chico in the least ancient part of the city. Here the architecture is rather more Mayan in character, with roof-combs, columned entrances and corbel vaulting.
Construction of the seven-storeyed pyramid (seven counting the temple at the top) began in the 4th c. and was probably completed in the 7th c. As is often the case with Old Indian buildings, it was superimposed on an older pyramid already there.
Each storey of the building is embellished on all four sides with a row of relatively shallow niches, square in shape and surrounded by a projecting stone "frame". The niches total 365 in all, symbolising the days of the year. At first it was thought they were intended to house figures, but archaeologists now believe their purpose was simply decorative. At one time the entire structure was clad in polychrome stucco, even the niches being painted in bright colours. The intention may perhaps have been to create a mystical effect using the interplay of light and shade. Up either side of the 10 m (33 ft)-wide stairway run broad alfardas (lateral balustrades) with a decorative stone mosaic of meandering fret design. The centre-line of the stairway is interrupted by five platforms, regularly spaced, each having three smaller niches. The stairway was a later, and almost certainly purely functional, addition.
From the plaza a track runs northwards to the Plaza El Tajín Chico in the least ancient part of the city. Here the architecture is rather more Mayan in character, with roof-combs, columned entrances and corbel vaulting.
Surrounding Ruins
Lower down from the Building of the Columns stands Building I where polychrome paintings of zoomorphic deities were recently discovered. Below the steps is the Central Ball Court, with six panels depicting among others the deities Tláloc, Quetzalcóatl and Macuilxochiti. To the north of the ball court rises "La Gran Greca", a platform of dimensions unique in Meso-America which served as a base for several buildings. Further north again can be seen "La Gran Xicalcoiunqhui" (Nahuátl: "great stepped meander"), a huge serpentine wall associated with Quetzalcóatl.
El Tajín Surroundings
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Papantla, Mexico
Papantla (290 m (952 ft); population: 90,000; fiestas: New Year, Corpus Christi, Fiesta de Vainilla beginning of June, All Saints), 15km/9.3mi south-east of El Tajín, is an attractive town set in hilly country carpeted with dense tropical forest. Spread out all around are the most extensive vanilla plantations in America.
Voladores
(Near El Tajin)
However Papantla's fame rests chiefly on the "voladores", whose flying act is traditionally performed here on major holidays (in particular during the eight day Feast of Corpus Christi). The origins of the ceremony can be traced back to a ritual drama based on the mythological story of the new maize, pre-Hispanic interpretations of which survive in hieroglyphic form. A musician sits playing on a small platform at the top of a tall mast, from which four "flyers" ("tocotines"), secured by a rope to a revolving frame at the masthead, glide earthwards head first. As they circle the pole the ropes progressively unwind until they reach the ground. Although associated principally with the Totonacs, the tradition survives among the Huastecs and Otomís as well. The Chorti in Honduras and the Quiché in Guatemala also perform similar flying acts.
Tecolutla, Mexico
40km/25mi south of Papantla, on the MEX 180, Tecolutla (population: 30,000) is a family resort with a flat sandy beach, set in an area of lush subtropical vegetation. It is popular with the Mexicans.
Tuxpan, Mexico
The port of Tuxpan (population: 135,000) lies on a river, 58km/36mi north of Poza Rica and 10km/6mi inland from the coast. Famous for its splendid sea and river fishing, it is also the venue of popular angling competitions held every year in late June/early July.
