Venice - Santa Maria Formosa

Mauro Coducci built this church in 1492 on the foundations of an older, probably 11th century church (the facade overlooking the Campo and the Baroque bell-tower were added in the 17th century). The result was an extremely successful merging of a basic Byzantine shape and Venetian Renaissance architecture, and an interior which, with its slender columns, little cupolas and barrel-vaults, gives the impression of being Byzantine yet is smothered with marvelous Renaissance ornamentation.

The most interesting works of art are Bartolomeo Vivarini's altar-piece "Madonna of Mercy (1473) and a "St Barbara" (early 16th century; Palma Vecchio) in the chapel to the right of the high altar. Every morning the square around the church, the Campo Santa Maria Formosa, is the scene of a fruit market as it has been for centuries. The church stands in the center of the square which is bordered on two sides by canals.

Until the fall of the Republic it was traditional for the Doge to visit the church every year at Candlemas. This commemorated a day in 944 when a number of girls on their way to church were abducted by Slavs from Almatia. They were rescued by the Scuola dei Casselleri (Guild of Makers of Marriage Coffers), who had their oratory in the church. As their reward the Doge was asked to make an annual visit to the church at Candlemas. "But what shall I do if it rains ?" asked the Doge. "We shall give you a hat". "And what shall I do if I am thirsty ?", "We shall give you drink". From then on every year at Candlemas the Doge was given a straw hat and a flagon at the Church of Santa Maria Formosa. One of the hats can be seen in the Museo Correr.