Van - Surroundings Attractions

The area to the north of Muradiye is characterized by a wide volcanic expanse of basalt. Through a narrow gorge, water breaks out of the volcanic ridge of Gönderme (Gönderme Bogazi) at Çaldiran. It then rushes down the valley over the volcanic rock until 8km/5mi north of Muradiye near the village of Degerbilir it plunges into a deep, narrow gorge as a wide and impressive waterfall.

To find the "Red Monastery" of Kamrak Vank follow the main road 65km/40mi west of Van and then fork off 7km/4mi west of Gevas to the village of Göründü (10km/6mi). The monastery lies a further three hours' walk beyond Göründü in the mountains. A local guide is recommended. The site can also be reached from the village of Altinsaç on the southern shores of Lake Van. The two preserved cruciform churches with simple domes probably date from around the 12th century.

On the road to Özalp, near the village of Dereüstü some 16km/10mi northeast of Van, the remains of the upper and lower Anzaf castles can be seen. In Urartian times both castles controlled the trade route to Persia. The lower square fortress with four thick semi-circular towers on the north side of the road was built by King Ishpuini, while the upper castle 800m0.5mi to the southeast, also with Cyclopean walls, was the work of his son Menua. The high castle walls and some typically Urartian stone markings can still be seen.

A little to the northwest of Müküs at almost 1,900m/6,200ft above sea level stands the Kurdish village of Aparank (Vatas). Allow ten hours for the journey with guide and mule. Of the five Armenian churches and a 17th century monastery in the village, the oldest building is the Church of St John (943-952) with a central dome and three apses. In 1664 another church was built to serve as the main church for the community, but it is now used as a barn.

The small garrison town of Çaldiran which lies 120km/75mi northeast of Van is dominated by the ruins of an Urartian fortress. The place is situated on the northwestern edge of a wide plain where in 1514 Selim I defeated the Safavid ruler Ismael I.

The remains of an Urartian harbor made from black basalt blocks can be seen about 20km/12mi east of Ercis close to the point where the River Deliçay flows into Lake Van. It is thought that a castle once stood here but no traces remain.

The sacred rock niche of Hazine Piri (also known as Hazine Kapisi) can be found near the village of Elmalik some 12km/7mi south of Van. It is thought to be the oldest sacred niche of this type in the Van region.

The Urartian castle known as Zivistan Kalesi is also to be found in the village. It consists of an upper and lower fortress. The upper site has been destroyed, but considerable remains of the lower site can still be seen.

About 40km/25mi off the eastern shores of Lake Van lies a small island where the ruins of a medieval Armenian monastery can be found. Opposite the mainland a little further south stand the ruins of the Arab castle of Amik Kalesi.

On the slopes to the east side of Gümüsdere, a town about 17km/10mi south of Van, lies an open-air workshop used by the stonemasons of Alniunu, an Urartian town whose name can be found inscribed on the harbor mole at Tushpa. Like the Hittite quarries at Yesemek, examples of half-worked stone blocks can be seen. They were clearly intended as the pedestals for sacred sites and were used on the citadel at Tushpa (Van). Unfortunately a lime kiln in the vicinity destroyed a number of the stone blocks.

About 15km/9mi to the north of Van on the road to Ercis lies the village of Kalecik, where the ruins of an Urartian castle known today as Kalecik Kalesi can be seen on a small rock. It was built by King Ishpuini to protect Tushpa against attacks from the north.

Two Urartian castles known as Kavenli and Kavuncu are situated 6km/4mi and 7km/4.5mi respectively east of Van on the western slopes of the Erek Dagi. The function of these two fortresses was primarily to protect the Urartian capital, but they were also used as stores for agricultural produce.

The remains of a well-preserved fortress wall sometimes as high as 8m/26ft and flanking fortified towers rise above the village of Ulusar which is situated 20km/12mi southeast of Muradiye.

Little is left of the monastery of Narek Vank near the village of Narek (now known as Yemislik) about 60km/37mi southwest of Van. The magnificent complex once stood on a hill roughly to the south of the road to Tatvan in the upper Narek Deresi but it has been dismantled and many examples of plundered building materials can be seen in the village houses.

German (1899) and American (1937) scientists carried out investigations on Tilkittepe near the village of Ayaspinar not far from Gümüsdere and came across a settlement which about 7,000 years ago had been used as a trading station for obsidian. This volcanic rock was hewn from the Nemrut Dagi, processed and sold to Mesopotamia.

More Armenian church ruins can be seen in the Narlica Deresi between Bahçesaray and Catak at the village of Wschny. The Church of St Mary (Church of the Mother of God) with its central dome, one long main transept and a short one is of interest as are the unusual conical roof above a round drum and the former village church nearby.

Northwest of Van and about 100 minutes away by boat the island of Çarpanak lies opposite the Cape of Citören. Here too can be found the remains of an Armenian church. It was initially built as a square structure with a central dome but later converted to a long triple-naved building. Light and dark volcanic rock from Ahlat was used in its construction. The main portal on the narrow side is particularly impressive displaying decorations in geometric, cruciform and stalactiform patterns.