Penek Attractions

About 40km/25mi northeast of Oltu, just before Aksar, a side road heads north for a kilometer or so to the little village of Penek, on the far side of a bridge crossing the Kamli Su. Penek's round church, badly damaged in the Russo-Turkish War, was probably built in the seventh century. Alterations are known to have been made during the reign of Prince Ardanase (881-923) and under Bishop Kwirike. The centrally-planned church, dedicated to a martyr, has four apses in a quatrefoil arrangement with small chapels in between, and a gallery around the first floor. 2km/1.25mi further up the valley is another ruined, centrally-planned church, Harap Kilise. An uphill walk of about two hours leads from there to Salomon Kalesi, a severely dilapidated fort with two chapels (remains of wall paintings).