70km/43mi south of Artvin, shortly before Kinaliçam, a turning off the main Erzurum road heads east along the Oltu Çayi valley towards Oltu. Not far along it, on the left, a dirt track leads north to Ishan, well worth visiting on account of its former cathedral, now a church. Several different phases of construction are easily recognisable. The
horseshoe-shaped east apse, carved with rosettes and floral ornamentation, belonged to the original seventh century building which had four conchas and multi-tiered blind arcading on the exterior. The first alterations were carried out in 828, followed by more in 1032 (the dome being added and the west end extended). Now that the roofs over the aisles are missing, the drum with its twisted columns seems almost to hover above the crossing. Note in particular the painting in the dome of angels holding a cross, and the medallions painted with saints and patrons of the church adorning the window vaultings of the north transept, embellished with plant and wicker pattern motifs. Inside the roofless church there is now a small chapel.