Away from the main roads and without any major industry Çankiri enjoys the unhurried life of a provincial town. In Hellenistic times Gangre, as it was then known, was the capital of Paphlagonia. As the empire collapsed it became a garrison town. In the 11th century it was occupied by an Ogusan army, but retaken by John II of the Comnenes in 1135
It later fell to the Beys (Emirs) of Candar/Isfendiyar (Kastamonu). The Ottomans finally seized power in 1495. At the beginning of the 20th century an earthquake destroyed a large part of the town.
The famous Ottoman architect Sinan built the large mosque in the center of the town between 1522 and 1528. Previously restored, it suffered serious damage in the earthquake and the rubble was cleared away in 1936. The Seljuk-style Tas Mescidi medrese endowed in 1235 by Atabeg Cemal-Eddin Ferruk was turned into a hospital by Alaeddin Kaykobad. In the same complex stands the founder's mausoleum. The staircase and gate have been restored, but they and the porch decorations are still good examples of Seljuk architecture.
The ruined fortress which has undergone a number of restorations stands on a hill overlooking the town and is clearly of Byzantine origins, although it stands on Roman remains. Some cave tombs can be found at the foot of the castle mound.