Near the busy port of Ayvalik, about 50km/31mi southwest of Edremit, the coastline curves around a series of bays backed by pine woods and olive groves, an area of much-frequented beaches and good holiday accommodation. There are also more than 20 offshore islands and islets, the largest of which, Alibey Adasi (named after a Turkish general in the War of Liberation) was already settled in antiquity and experienced a golden age under the Romans. Ayvalik itself, which contrary to the Turkish custom faces the sea, was until 1922 a purely Christian (Greek) community.
Even today the neo-classical facades of its older houses and the alleys of the Old Town give it a distinctive air. It grew up between the 16th and 18th centuries, becoming a kind of sanctuary for its small Greek population. In 1773 Muslims were actually banned from living there by the Ottoman Sultan Mustafa III. By the beginning of the 19th century the town had attained a peak of prosperity. In 1821 however the Kydonians seized two Turkish ships, as a result of which they found themselves expelled, setting fire to the town as they went. In 1827 the Sultan Mahmut II allowed some 18,000 Greeks to return, though without restoring their earlier privileges. The town quickly resumed its role as an important port, reflected in its having as many as five consulates. Its citizens are said to have been accomplished smugglers. Less than a hundred years later the inhabitants again found themselves forced to leave, this time as part of the exchanges of population following the abortive Greek occupation (1919-22). The Greek Christians left behind a great many churches which the Muslims put to use as mosques. The Taksiyarhis Kilisesi, a 19th century building with a lovely interior, on the northern outskirts of the town, is well worth seeing.
Be sure also to visit two nearby viewpoints at Seytab Sofrasi (Devil's Table) and Tavsankulari (Rabbit's Ear Hill). Both are on the Timerhane peninsula and offer magnificent views across a sea dotted with islets and islands and the picturesquely indented coastline. There is also a small national park (red and roe deer and partridges). Timarhane was at one time known as "Madhouse Peninsula", the mentally ill being banished there in chains. They are said to have returned completely cured.
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Ayvalik
