From Mexico City by air about 1 hour; by rail about 17 hours; by bus about 8 hours; by car 613km/381mi on the MEX 75D and MEX 45 via León, Querétaro and Aguascalientes.
The attractive colonial town of Zacatecas, capital of the state of the same name, is situated in a narrow gorge, dominated by the hills of La Bufa, Mala Noche and El Padre and surrounded by a plateau with mountainous outcrops. For centuries the town was an important centre for silver mining. Today Zacatecas is one of the most beautiful colonial towns in the country with its attractive old buildings and cobbled streets.
The region around Zacatecas (Náhuatl: "land where zacate grass grows") was inhabited by various Indian tribes in pre-Hispanic times. Very little is known about them although they may well have at times come under the influence of the culture centres of Chalchihuites and La Quemada (Chicomóztoc).
A group of Conquistadores led by Juan de Tolosa, who were searching for silver, founded the town in 1546. The settlement quickly became rich through silver mining and in 1585 received its charter from Philip II. During the Revolutionary War there was a bitter struggle here between troops of the dictator Victoriano Huerta and Francisco ("Pancho") Villa, in which the latter was the victor. In 1993 UNESCO declared this historical town a world cultural heritage centre.
The Zacatecas Cathedral on Plaza Hidalgo is an excellent example of Mexican Churrigueresque style. The rich exterior is the main highlight, while the interior is much less fanciful.
The relief on the side of the church is the only remnant of the original building which was completed in 1782. The church now holds exhibitions of paintings.
Address: Antiguo Templo de San Agustín, Plaza Miguel Auza, Zacatecas, Zacatecas , Mexico
To the north-west of the city centre (C. Antonio Doval), a visit to the El Edén mine, which can include a trip on the mine railway, gives a good insight into the harsh and often inhuman work of the silver mines.
Address: El Edén Mine, Zacatecas, Zacatecas , Mexico
An international week of culture is held during Easter week. On September 8th, the annniversary of the founding of Zacatecas, a two-week fair, begins together with bull and cock-fights, sports meetings and concerts.
The government palace (Palacio de Gobierno), which is also situated in the Plaza Hidalgo, dates from the 18th c. and has attractive wrought-iron balconies.
It is well worth visiting the Museo Francisco Goitia which is housed in the former Casa del Pueblo, a Neo-Classical building not far from the aqueduct. There are works on display by contemporary Mexican painters including the important expressionist painter Francisco Goitia (1884-1960), who was born in Fresnillo and chronicled the Revolutionary War in his paintings.
Address: Museo Francisco Goitia, General Enrique Estrada, #102, Zacatecas, Zacatecas , Mexico
Hours:
Always opened on: Maundy (Holy) Thursday - Christian, Easter - Christian, Palm Sunday - Christian, Good Friday - Christian, Easter Monday - Christian
Built in the 18th c. this museum's history is quite varied. Built as a fortress it later became a Jesuit College and then a jail. It also served as a hospital at one point. The museum features a library, basaltic sculptures by Pedro Coronel, and pre-Hispanic art dating back to the 16th c. There is also art from famous international artists such as; Picasso, Miró, and Dalí.
Address: Museo Pedro Coronel (Colegio San Luis Gonzaga), Plaza de Santa Domingo, Zacatecas, Zacatecas , Mexico
The Museo Rafael Coronel is housed in the former San Francisco convent. Its exhibits include 4000 masks, mainly pre-Spanish, from all over Mexico, drawings by Coronel and a puppet collection. Displayed in the Colegio de San Luis Gonzaga on the Plaza de Santa Domingo are works by Rafael's elder brother, Pedro Coronel, as well as pre-Columbian, European, African and Asian art.
Address: Museo Rafael Coronel, Zacatecas, Zacatecas , Mexico
This museum features colonial furniture as well as a variety of Huichol pieces, including jewelry, wooden figures and instruments. The museum once housed the Mint.
Address: Museo Zacatecano, Dr. Hierro, #301, Zacatecas, Zacatecas , Mexico
Other sights include the strange metal construction of the Jesús Gonzáles Ortega market from the end of the 19th c., the church and convent of San Francisco with its Gothic cloister (16th/17th c.), the Teatro Calderón (end of the 19th c.), the folk museum of the Huichol Indians (Museo Arte Huichol) and the aqueduct (18th/19th c.) at the southern end of the city.
This palace was built after Don Manuel Rétegui had finally struck it rich with a mine he had invested into. The mine, having swallowed all his money was not yielding any return, one night the Don was contemplating suicide and as he wrote his note a fortune was discovered in his mine.
Address: Palacios de la Justica (Palacio de la Mala Noche), Avenida Hidalgo, #669, Zacatecas, Zacatecas , Mexico
This, once the most magnificent religious building in Zacatecas, still captivates - although for the most part in ruins - by its Plateresque side door which has decorations depicting the conversion of Saint Augustine which must rank among the most beautiful in the country. The State Natural History Museum is now housed here.
Across the Callejón de Veyna, which begins at the government palace, we come to the church of Santo Domingo, a sober Baroque building dating from the middle of the 18th c. The façade is in the form of a "Spanish wall". Inside along the sides there are beautifully carved Churrigueresque retablos and a Neo-Classical main altar. The 18th c. paintings in the sacristy are noteworthy.
The church is adjoined by the old Jesuit college with a lovely cloister.
Address: Santa Domingo, Plaza de Santa Domingo, #601, Zacatecas, Zacatecas , Mexico
About 60km/37mi north-west of Zacatecas on the MEX 45 is the old silver town of Fresnillo (2250 m (7382 ft); population 190,000; fiestas: August 23rd, foundation day; in Plateros (7km/4.3mi away) June 15th, Día del Santo Niño). There are thermal baths nearby.
From Zacatecas on the MEX 45, with a turning off right after 23km/14mi, it is 56km/35mi in all to the town of Jerez de García Salinas (2190 m (7185 ft); population 70,000; fiestas: January 23rd, Día de San Ildefonso; Easter Saturday; September 8th, Día de la Virgen de la Soledad); this town has an Andalusian atmosphere.
At the km2.5/mi1.7 marker on the MEX 45 road stands the mansion owned by Don Ignacio de Bernardez, where visitors can now see silversmiths at work and purchase their products. These can also be obtained in the Centro Comercial "El Mercado" near the cathedral.