The most northerly stretch of the Spanish Mediterranean coast, the Costa Brava ("Wild Coast"), is one of the most popular holiday areas in Spain, favored particularly by visitors from northern Europe because of its accessibility. Its reputation has suffered in recent years from the enormous development of hotels and tourist facilities which has ruined much of the coast and made the Costa Brava the very epitome of mass tourism. Away from the main tourist centers, however, the Costa Brava still offers visitors magnificent scenery, great works of art and good bathing.
The much indented coast is rocky for most of the way, and on the cliff-fringed promontories cannot usually reached by car and is sometimes accessible only by boat. Between the promontories there are picturesque fishing villages and little towns with sandy beaches. Visitors who prefer to avoid the long drive along the coast road with its many bends can see the most beautiful places on the Costa Brava by following N II and the A 7 motorway (E 15), from which there are roads (usually of good quality) leading down to the coast.
On the coast to the southeast of Castelló de Ampurias is the planned holiday settlement of Ampuriabrava, a well designed complex of holiday houses and apartments laid out round an artificial network of canals.
From Torroella the road runs through level country (rice-fields) by way of Pals, an old-world little town picturesquely situated on the slopes of a hill, and Regencós to Bagur (Catalan Begur; alt. 220m/720ft), built round a castle situated on a cone-shaped crag, from which there are panoramic views.
To the north of the Port Lligat promontory the 80m/260ft high Cabo Creus, known to the Greeks as Cape Aphrodision, projects into the sea. It is the most easterly point on the Iberian peninsula.
From Rosas C 260 runs round the Bahía de Rosas to Castelló de Ampurias, an old market town with the church of Santa María (13th-15th C.), which has a fine doorway and a Gothic alabaster retablo.
Visitors entering Spain from France should take N 114 from Perpignan. This runs via Argelès-sur-Mer to the French frontier town of Cerbère, 49km/ 30mi from Perpignan, from which the road winds its way up to the Col de Balitres (173m/568ft), on the frontier, with beautiful views of the coast.
The road continues from Port-Bou high above the cliff-fringed coast with its offshore islands to Colera, which lies below the road and has a stony beach.
The drive along the Costa Brava ends at Blanes, the last resort on this stretch of coast. Places of interest in the hinterland of the coast include Gerona, Figueras and Vich.
From Castelló de Ampurias a secondary road runs south by way of San Pedro Pescador and the archeological site of Ampurias to the old fishing port of La Escala, attractively situated above the sea on a small promontory in the Golfo de Rosas. It is now a popular family holiday resort, with a beach of sand and pebbles.
Address: L'Escala Tourist Office, Placa de les Escoles, E-17130 L'Escala, Spain
Beyond Colera is Llansá, a little walled town, off the road to the right, with the Baroque church of San Vicente (Catalan Sant Vincenç) and a 15th Century defensive tower. There is a small beach by the harbor.
Address: Llança Tourist Office, Avenida Europa 37, E-17490 Llança, Spain
Lloret de Mar is one of the most popular resorts on the Spanish Mediterranean coast. Once a modest fishing village, it is now a high-class holiday and tourist center with a wide range of entertainment and leisure facilities, including the Waterworld leisure center to the west of the town.
Beach and skyline of Lloret de Mar.
The old castle in Lloret de Mar.
Address: Lloret de Mar Tourist Office, Plaza de la Vila 1, E-17310 Lloret de Mar, Spain
C 253 continues southwest from Palamós, a short distance from the coast, to San Antonio de Calonge (with the beautifully situated inland holiday resort of Calonge 2.5km/1.5mi off on the right) and Playa de Aro, a busy seaside resort comprehensively developed for tourism, with high-rise hotels lining the seafront promenade.
2km/1.25mi southeast of Bagur are the resorts of Playa de Fornells and Aiguablava, the latter of which has a small sandy beach and attractive coves with clear water.
Beyond the French frontier another winding road runs down to Port-Bou, a fishing port and the Spanish frontier town. It has an important railroad station, since in view of the broader gauge of the Spanish railroad system passengers must usually change trains here or wait while their carriages are adjusted to the Spanish gauge.
Returning from Cadaqués to the road junction, we turn left and in another 12km/7.5mi turn left again into the road to Rosas, originally founded by the Greeks under the name of Rhode. At the west end of the town, within the walls of a former citadel, are the remains of a church belonging to an early Christian cemetery.
San Feliú de Guixols is a port town, attractively situated at the head of a bay. As the main center for the shipment of the cork produced in the surrounding area it is a port of call for ships of many nations, and it is also a very popular seaside resort with a good beach. In the town are the remains of a monastery built in the 13th century, with an iron entrance gate, the 11th century Porta Ferrada, and a defensive tower beside it. In the square, standing by itself, is a Baroque doorway. The Casa Berruguer contains a small museum with Iberian, Greek and Roman antiquities.
A street in San Feliude Guixols.
Address: San Feliúde de Guixols Tourist Office, Plaza del Monestir 54, E-17220 San Feliúde de Guixols, Spain