Tunceli Attractions
Eastern Anatolia
In one of the most underdeveloped but also one of the most attractive regions of eastern Turkey lies the provincial town of Tunceli, a settlement on the southern edge of an impressive mountainous region. Town names which have frequently changed point to years of political upheavals.
The highlands of Tunceli
Hemmed in by the paths of the Peri Suyu in the east, the Firat Nehri to the west and the north and the Murat Nehri in the south, all sources of the Euphrates, the triangular region thus created which forms the "wild" Tunceli highlands is characterized by two very different types of mountains. The northern Munzur range of steep limestone peaks with deep folds, a part of the Eastern Taurus, creates a wall which separates the major seismic fault- line of northern Anatolia from the Tunceli highlands proper to the south. The climate in this natural barrier of peaks over 3,000m/9,850ft high is harsh with severe winters and cool summers, but the wooded slopes at the heart of eastern Anatolia, nevertheless, make ideal walking country.
In the southern highlands the winter is milder. It is here that the mainly Kurdish speaking population, densely spread throughout a region on average 2,000m/6,500ft above sea level in a network of farms and hamlets, expresses its culture. The farmers make the most of the plentiful rainfall in this region, which has been settled from early times. As well as Kurds and at one time Armenians, another minority, the Alevite Zazas or Kizilbas (red heads, on account of the traditional red headgear) have predominated in this disputed territory.
History
Tunceli became the provincial capital in 1950 and like the earlier village of Mamiki, it has little of interest to offer visitors. The region acquired notoriety as a result of local squabbles among the predominantly Kurdish population and these led increasingly to changes in the regional administration. In 1938 under Seyyid Riza the inhabitants of Dersim (now Hozat 50km/31mi east of Tunceli) used terrorism to protest against military conscription and taxation demands. After atrocities on both sides, enforced resettlement followed and the region is now dotted with abandoned villages, some of which go back to the "resettlement" of Armenians in 1915/16. The main victims, however, were the Zaza ethnic minority, known throughout the land as "devil worshippers" - Alevites who had resided in the Tunceli region in large numbers since at least the 16th century.
Alevites
In the history of Islam, the Alevite sect can be traced back to a 12th century Persian-Shiite movement known as the Messianic Revolution. It was named after its leader Ali, one of Mohammed's sons-in-law who was murdered in a mosque. The followers of Ali (often Kurds) were subject to systematic persecution by the Ottoman Empire and were forced to keep their beliefs secret and stopped worshipping at the mosque.
With time some questionable practices came to replace traditional Islamic principles, leading sometimes to a complete abandonment of the faith. The Alevites more relaxed stance towards the Islamic taboos such as women wearing the veil, fasting and ceremonial rites encouraged the dissemination of wild rumors and untruths. It was claimed the Alevites took part in orgies, worshipped the devil and had breath smelling like animals. For most Sunni Turks this was sufficient justification to discriminate against the Alevites. The latter became generally identified with the Kurds, who are now more likely to express their dissidence by associating with the political left and often seem to be the victims of police violence.
In one of the most underdeveloped but also one of the most attractive regions of eastern Turkey lies the provincial town of Tunceli, a settlement on the southern edge of an impressive mountainous region. Town names which have frequently changed point to years of political upheavals.
The highlands of Tunceli
Hemmed in by the paths of the Peri Suyu in the east, the Firat Nehri to the west and the north and the Murat Nehri in the south, all sources of the Euphrates, the triangular region thus created which forms the "wild" Tunceli highlands is characterized by two very different types of mountains. The northern Munzur range of steep limestone peaks with deep folds, a part of the Eastern Taurus, creates a wall which separates the major seismic fault- line of northern Anatolia from the Tunceli highlands proper to the south. The climate in this natural barrier of peaks over 3,000m/9,850ft high is harsh with severe winters and cool summers, but the wooded slopes at the heart of eastern Anatolia, nevertheless, make ideal walking country.
In the southern highlands the winter is milder. It is here that the mainly Kurdish speaking population, densely spread throughout a region on average 2,000m/6,500ft above sea level in a network of farms and hamlets, expresses its culture. The farmers make the most of the plentiful rainfall in this region, which has been settled from early times. As well as Kurds and at one time Armenians, another minority, the Alevite Zazas or Kizilbas (red heads, on account of the traditional red headgear) have predominated in this disputed territory.
History
Tunceli became the provincial capital in 1950 and like the earlier village of Mamiki, it has little of interest to offer visitors. The region acquired notoriety as a result of local squabbles among the predominantly Kurdish population and these led increasingly to changes in the regional administration. In 1938 under Seyyid Riza the inhabitants of Dersim (now Hozat 50km/31mi east of Tunceli) used terrorism to protest against military conscription and taxation demands. After atrocities on both sides, enforced resettlement followed and the region is now dotted with abandoned villages, some of which go back to the "resettlement" of Armenians in 1915/16. The main victims, however, were the Zaza ethnic minority, known throughout the land as "devil worshippers" - Alevites who had resided in the Tunceli region in large numbers since at least the 16th century.
Alevites
In the history of Islam, the Alevite sect can be traced back to a 12th century Persian-Shiite movement known as the Messianic Revolution. It was named after its leader Ali, one of Mohammed's sons-in-law who was murdered in a mosque. The followers of Ali (often Kurds) were subject to systematic persecution by the Ottoman Empire and were forced to keep their beliefs secret and stopped worshipping at the mosque.
With time some questionable practices came to replace traditional Islamic principles, leading sometimes to a complete abandonment of the faith. The Alevites more relaxed stance towards the Islamic taboos such as women wearing the veil, fasting and ceremonial rites encouraged the dissemination of wild rumors and untruths. It was claimed the Alevites took part in orgies, worshipped the devil and had breath smelling like animals. For most Sunni Turks this was sufficient justification to discriminate against the Alevites. The latter became generally identified with the Kurds, who are now more likely to express their dissidence by associating with the political left and often seem to be the victims of police violence.
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Munzur Vadisi (Milli Parki)
Munzur National Park, a popular walking and hiking area, is a region of lofty mountain peaks, with many rising over 3,000 m.
Cemiskezek, Turkey
(Near Tunceli)
The small town of Çemiskezek can be reached via reasonable roads and lies about 110km/70mi west of Tunceli by the Tahar Çayi. The dervish cells hewn from the rocks and the Ulu Cami are worth visiting.
Mazgirt, Turkey
(Near Tunceli)
Mazgirt is a small town dominated by a medieval castle about 30km/19mi southeast of Tunceli. The Etli Sultan Türbesi and the adjoining mosque are of interest. It was in Mazgirt that a column displaying some Assyrian cuneiform writing was found. The thermal baths at Bagin, formerly Castrum Palios, to the east of Mazgirt can be reached by making a detour via Palu and Karakoçan (105km/65mi) or taking the poor road through Darikent (35km/22mi).
Nazimiye, Turkey
(Near Tunceli)
The Dereova Selalesi close to Dereova (Hakis) and the Karagöl Selalesi are both impressive waterfalls and can be found near Nazimiye, about 35km/22mi northeast of Tunceli.
Ovacik, Turkey
(Near Tunceli)
The original place-name for Ovacik (small valley) was Marasalçakmak (marshal's pipe). In 1878 the town became a regional center, but it was abandoned in 1916. In 1925 it was re-settled and in 1938 the village of Ovacik became an administrative center for the region.
Attractions in Other Popular Destinations
