The port of Toulon lies about 70km/43mi southeast of Marseilles near the most southerly point of the French Riviera. The Bay of Toulon forms an outstanding natural harbor; it consists of the inner "Petite Rade" (little harbor roads) and the outer "Grande Rade" (large roads) and is protected by the off-shore promontory of St-Mandrier. Toulon is the most important military port in France with appropriate dock and supply facilities.
The settlement, called Telonion by the Greeks, Telo Martius by the Romans, was of importance in ancient times primarily because of the purple dye which could be obtained from the purple snails which lived in the sea.
The conversion to a naval port did not occur until recent times. In 1487 Toulon passed into French hands under King Louis XI and became an important base by virtue of its strategic position (the largest natural harbor in the Mediterranean). The Tour Royale, which controlled the access to the "Petite Rade", was built in 1514. The fortifications, which were installed towards the end of the 16th century and strengthened by Vauban in 1660, withstood in 1707 the combined forces of Prince Eugene, Holland and England. In 1793, during the Revolution, the royalists delivered the town to the English Admiral Hood; it was reconquered by the revolutionary army after a six- week siege, during which the 23- year-old batallion commander Napoleon Bonaparte (later Napoleon I) gained particular distinction and was as a result promoted to brigadier-general. In the 19th century it was from Toulon that the French troops left to go to war: to the Crimea, Italy, Mexico, Indo-China, Madagascar, Africa. Until 1939 the naval fleet constituted the only employer in the town worth naming. In the Second World War Toulon was occupied by German troops in November 1942 and half-destroyed by bombing; the French fleet went down on November 27. When the Allied forces landed in August 1944 Toulon was one of the first towns to be liberated. In 1974 Toulon became (after a lapse of 181 years) a prefecture again and capital of the département of Var.
The Corniche du Mont Faron (Corniche Marius Escartefigue), a panoramic road half-way up Mont Faron, borders the district of Ste-Anne (with the spacious Hôpital Maritime) and Super-Toulon. The last named is characterized by fine villas situated on the slope. There are magnificent views early in the morning and shortly before sunset.
Mont Faron stands to the north of Toulon. Tourists can take a cable way, or drive up the narrow winding road, to gain great views from the summit. At the top is the Mémorial du Débarquement.
In Toulon, to the north of the Préfecture Maritime stands the Musée de la Marine (Naval Museum), which houses a collection of old models of ships, etchings and drawings and an exhibition about the development of artillery.
Address: Musée de la Marine, Place Monsenergue, Quai de Norfolk, F-83000 Toulon, France
Hours:
April 1 to September 30: 10am-6:30pm; Closed: Tue
October 1 to March 31: 10am-12pm, 2pm-6pm; Closed: Tue
Always closed on: New Year's Day (January 1), 1945 Victory Day (May 8), May Day / Labor Day (May 1), Bastille Day - France (July 14), Assumption Day - Christian (August 15), All Saints' Day - Christian (November 1), Remembrance Day / 1918 Armistice Day (November 11), Christmas - Christian (December 25), Pentecost Monday (Whit Monday) - Christian, Ascension Thursday - Christian
Disability Access: Full facilities for persons with disabilities.
Southwest of the Place Puget in the center of the Toulon Old Town stands the early Gothic cathedral of Ste- Marie-Majeure (11th/12th C.; rebuilt in the 17th C.) with an 18th C. belfry. Nearby is the colorful Marché (market; vegetables, flowers) and (on the Cours Lafayette) the Musée du Vieux Toulon with local history collections and sacred art.
Festivals and events in Toulon include a Spring Festival in March, a Cartoon Festival and Veteran Car Rally in May, a Festival of the Sea in June and Santon Fair in July and November.
The Toulon festival is an eight-week event that runs from late May to mid-July. Since its inception in 1951, the festival has brought together famous performers for concerts of choral and chamber music, as well as for piano and vocal recitals. There are a dozen events planned each year in venues including the Toulon Opera House and local churches.
Address: Festival de Musique de Toulon, Palais de la Bourse Avenue Jean Moulin, F-83000 Toulon, France
At the west end of the Quai Stalingrad along the Darse Neuve (New Harbor) in Toulon begin the workshops, docks and stores of the Arsenal Maritime behind the fine Porte de l'Arsenal (1738).
Not far north of Cuers village one reaches the Gorges d'Ollioules, which has been cut by the River Reppe with strange rock formations. Above the gorge on a sheer volcanic rock lies the village of Evenos, a "village perché" with the remains of a castle, the keep of which, like the old houses, is built of blocks of basalt.
On the western route to Signes near Toulon, at the junction of the D402 with the N8, is the motor-racing track of Paul-Ricard, which until 1990 was the venue of the Grand Prix de France (Formula One). Since 1991 the race has been held at Magny-Cours, near Nevers in Burgundy.
Cuers, situated 22km/14mi to the north of Toulon in the country, is a well-known cork-processing center. On the south-eastern edge of the Barre de Cuers (696m/2,284ft) there are extensive areas of flower cultivation.
The center of Cuers is picturesque with its fine parish church (great organ of 1669), the medieval gateway and pretty little streets. Above the village stand the ruins of a former castle from which there are good views.
Address: Cuers Office de Tourisme, 18, Place de la Convention, F-83390 Cuers, France
La Seyne-sur-Mer, 4km/2mi to the west of Toulon on the other side of the bay, is an industrial town with several parts; it has important shipyards, mussel-beds and works for the processing of olive-wood. Of interest are the 17th C. Church of Notre-Dame-du-Bon-Voyage, the former Fort Balaguier, also 17th C., and the Musée de la Seyne (local history). To the east lies the pleasant yacht and fishing harbor with a movable bridge.
In Toulon, beyond the Rond-Point Bonaparte lies Mourillon, the quarter in the southeast. From the Tour Royale, an impressive fortified building of the time of Louis XII at the southern end of the roadstead, there is an exceptional panoramic view. The contents of the "Musée Naval Tour Royale", which was once housed here, have now been transferred to Paris. To the northeast stands Fort St Louis (1707), which guards a small harbor.
Ollioules, on the southern slope of the gorge of the same name (8km/5mi to the west), is well-known for its flower-growing (auctions). There is a ruined castle in the village.
Address: Ollioules Office de Tourisme, 116, rue Philippe de Hauteclocque, F-83190 Ollioules, France
The quiet old vine- and fruit-growing village of Signes lies 30km/19mi to the north of Toulon in a hollow on the edge of the headwaters of the Gapeau. It is reached either via Ollioules (west, N8, D402 and D2) or via Solliès-Pont (east, N97, D554 and D2). Here in the Place St-Jean stands a beautiful chapel which was restored in the 17th C.; inside can be seen pictures, votive tablets and penitents' garments. The square is embellished by an 18th C. fountain. In the Church of St-Pierre, which has also restored (16th C. belfry), the beautiful wooden altar of the 14th and 17th C. is worthy of note.
Address: Signes Tourist Office, 29 rue Pasteur, F-83870 Signes, France
Tamaris, which gets its name from the tamarisks which grow here, is a popular resort with a yachting harbor which is reached by following a beautiful coastal road around the promontory of Fort Balaguier. To the west above the resort stands Fort Napoléon, and behind it along the Rade du Lazaret is the district of Les Sablettes which lies on a sandy spit between Cap Sicié and Cap Cépet. From here there is a particularly fine view of the roadsteads of Toulon and the sea.