The Norwegian county of Telemark extends north from the Skagerrak to the southern Norwegian uplands and the outliers of the Hardangervidda. Along its rocky coast are numerous seaside resorts; the hinterland is mostly hilly and well wooded, while the Hardangervidda is a desolate plateau. Telemark played an important part in the development of skiing techniques. The telemark turn was much practiced between the two world wars, and has recently returned to favor, particularly among young people.
The old road reaches its highest point on Dyrskar (1,145m/3,757ft), a pass barely exceeded in magnificence by the great Alpine passes, on the watershed between the Atlantic and the Skagerrak. The modern road runs under the pass in a tunnel 5,682m/6,214yd long.
The Haukeli Road (toll), opened in 1886 and later partly re-aligned, is one of the most rewarding routes to the southern part of the Norwegian west coast, with superb views of mountain scenery. There are many unlit tunnels, particularly in the eastern section of the road.
From Haukeligrend the road climbs up the Haukelifjell, passing an old stabbur at Botn (915m/3,000ft). Soon it rises above the tree-line, and the view to the west opens up.
The E 76 climbs the slopes of the Røldalsfjell, with a view ahead of the great Folgefonn glacier, which rises to a height of 1,654m/5,427ft. It then runs through several tunnels, passes the impressive Seljestad Gorge and comes to a junction where Road 47 goes off on the right and continues north to Odda, on the Sørfjord. Here E 76 turns southwest along the south side of the Åkrafjord.
The village of Etne, on the Etnefjord, was created by the unification of Etne and Skånevik in 1965. Etne has a wooden church from 1675, with a tower that was added in 1930. There is good fishing in the Etneelv.
From Saudal a narrow road on the right runs 22km/14mi up the Tuddalsdal to the 18th century church of Tuddal (alt. 468m/1,535ft). 6km/4mi beyond this is the Tuddal Høyfjellshotell, the starting-point of the ascent of Gausta (1,883m/6,178ft), the highest peak south of the Bergen Railroad.
E 76 continues northwest from Ravnejuv to Haukeligrend, an important junction where Road 39 goes off on the left and runs south to Kristiansand. Straight ahead is the continuation of E 76, which from here to Haugesund, on the coast (197km/123mi), is known as the Haukeli Road. Only the first 30km/20mi of this road is in Telemark; at Haukeliseter it enters the county of Hordaland.
Haukeliseter lies on a passage through the mountains, in a lonely setting at the east end of the Ståvann. It is a popular climbing and skiing center, with numerous cross-country ski trails. Haukeliseter also offers boating, kayaking and fishing opportunities. The road now passes from Telemark into Hordaland. Ahead, to the right, can be seen the steep rock faces of the Store Nupsfonn.
50km/30mi north of Skien as the crow flies, at the outflow of the Tinnelv into the Heddalsvatn, is the town of Notodden (alt.31m/100ft, pop. 12,000), which lies on E 76. To the east along E 76 is Kongsberg; to the west is the stave church of Heddal, the largest in Norway.
The annual Notodden Blues Festival is well-known throughout Europe as well as the metal festival called Motstøy Festivalen.
The stave church of Heddal (Hitterdal), which dates from the middle of the 13th century (restored in 1849-51 and again in 1952-54), is the largest of Norway's old wooden churches. It has fine 14th century wall paintings and a carved bishop's throne. The windows were inserted during the 19th century restoration work. The belfry stands opposite the church on the other side of the road.
The road continues from Dyrskar over a wasteland of rocks and snow and through a number of tunnels to Røldal (alt. 390m/1,289ft), at the north end of the lake of that name, with a stave church (13th century, with later alterations) and an Iron Age cemetery area.
Røldal is noted for receiving the most snowfall of any area in Norway thus making it an ideal skiing destination.
E 76 runs from Heddal to Sauland (alt. 90m/295ft), prettily situated at the junction of the Tuddalsdal and the Heddal. The village has a church built in 1857 on the site of an earlier stave church and a store-house (stabbur) of 1718.
From Gausta E 76 continues to Seljord (alt. 120m/395ft), to the east of which is the Lifjell, the highest peak in which is Gyrannaten (1,550m/5,085ft). In November 1870 two Frenchmen who had escaped from the besieged city of Paris by balloon landed on the southwestern slopes of the Lifjell.
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Karmoy, Haugesund
Karmoy, Haugesund
Seljord Lifjell
