Rhine Valley Attractions

The Upper Rhine plain, a rift valley some 30-40 km/20-25 mi wide, is bounded on the east by the Black Forest, the Kraichgau and the Odenwald, on the west by the Vosges, the Haardt and the uplands of the northern Palatinate. Its lose soil makes it a fertile fruit- and vine-growing region (Markgräflerland, Kaiserstuhl, Ortenau, Deutsche Weinstrasse, Bergstrasse).In its middle course the Rhine flows between the Rheingau (on right) and Rheinhessen (on left) for some 100 km/60 mi. Both of these areas lie within the western Mainz basin, which forms the northern termination of the trough-like depression of the Upper Rhine plain and, like it, was the result of a rift in Tertiary times. The Rheingau and the Rheinhessen uplands were at one stage submerged by water and were separated from one another only in geologically recent times. How far the water extended at one time is shown by the interesting fossil-rich deposits which can be seen in sand and marl pits at Gau-Algesheim, Sprendlingen, Messel and Weinheim.At Bingen the river, which at Mainz had come up against the wall of the Taunus and made a sharp turn westward, changes its course again and flows through the Rhenish Uplands against the grain of the rock, cutting across the hard quartzites of the Hunsrück and the Taunus. In this resistant rock it is confined to a narrow gorge-like valley. The hills rose slowly from the Tertiary onwards, while the Rhine cut its way in stages into a pre-existing trough, creating a terraced landscape pattern. As a result boulder clay deposited by the Rhine is found at varying altitudes.The passage through the Rhenish Uplands, with its changes of gradient, also creates difficulties of navigation - at the Binger Loch (Bingen Hole), the legendary Loreley Rock and St Goar. In the more open loess basins between these places there is room for prosperous settlements, for the growing of vines and fruit. These variations, together with the castles crowning the steep hills on either side and the islands in the river, produce an ever-changing pattern of scenery.Below Koblenz, where the Mosel flows into the Rhine at Deutsches Eck, the valley opens out into the little Neuwied basin, where there has been a vigorous development of industry. Shortly before the river enters the Lower Rhine plain it passes on the right an outlier of the Westerwald, the distinctively shaped Siebengebirge (Seven Hills), forming a striking landmark at the lower end of the Middle Rhine.The river then enters the Cologne or Lower Rhine lowlands, a gently undulating region. The Lower Rhine really begins at Duisburg. Then at Elten, below a hill crowned by a monastery, the Rhine crosses the frontier into the Netherlands.

Situation and characteristicsThe Pfälzer Wald (Palatinate Forest) is an upland region of Bunter sandstone on the left bank of the Upper Rhine, immediately north of the Vosges. With an area of some 1,350sq.km/520sq.mi, it is one of the largest expanses of forest in Germany: even the towns of Kaiserslautern and Pirmasens are almost completely ringed by forest.LandscapeThe hills rise very gradually from the Saar basin in the west and then fall steeply down to the Rhine plain in the east. At the east end, in the Haardtgebirge, are the highest peaks (Kalmit, 673m/2,208ft). Here the hills are crowned by numerous ruined castles.

Situation and characteristicsThe modern city of Ludwigshafen lies on the left bank of the Rhine, immediately opposite the town of Mannheim in Baden. It is internationally known as the headquarters of BASF, the Badische Anilin- und Soda-Fabrik.In the city center, at Berliner Strasse 23, is the Wilhelm Hack Museum, with a colorful facade by Joan Miró, which contains the municipal art collection (20th C. European painting; Late Roman, Frankish and medieval art).

Königswinter is a popular resort at the foot of the Siebengebirge. A rack railroad runs up to the summit of the Drachenfels, on which stand the ruins of a castle built in 1147 and destroyed in 1634. There are good views, extending as far as Cologne.On the Petersberg is the former Petersberg Hotel, now a government guesthouse.

The Rheinhessen extends from Bad Kreuznach in the west to the Rhine in the east. Its northern boundary is at Mainz and its southern boundary at Worms.There is significant variety in the soil types and climates across the region.

Extensive bike paths along the Rhine are one of the better and more scenic biking opportunities in Europe. The many small villages offer plentiful accommodation and gourmet meals.