Olinda (protected as a national monument and a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site), 7km/4.3mi north of Recife, was the first capital of Pernambuco. It was founded in 1537 on a hill to the north of the Rio Beberibe, between the mata zone, with its sugar-cane plantations, and the coast. The town was a center of colonization and sugar-cane growing, but was soon overshadowed by Recife, the more dynamic port town, since it had no access of its own to the sea. The rivalry between the two towns reached its peak in 1710, after the promotion of Recife to the status of a vila, in the "Guerra dos Mascates", when the sugar barons of Recife opposed the political rise of the middle-class merchants of Olinda. With its churches, its Carnival and its festivals, Olinda is now one of the most popular tourist centers in Brazil.
The Monastery of Sao Bento is located on Rua Sao Bento, in close proximity to the Governor's Palace. The Church features an impressive choir chapel as well as notable works of scuplture by various carvers and sculptors.
Beyond the Cathedral, on the Alto da Sé (Cathedral Hill), are a number of interesting buildings: the Seminary (1549); the church of the Misericórdia (1540; restored 1654), which has fine gilded carving and pictures; the church of the Imaculada Conceição (Immaculate Conception; 1569); and the former Bishop's Palace, now housing the Pernambuco Museum of Sacred Art.
In Rua 13 de Maio, north-west of the Cathedral, is the Museu de Arte Contemporânea, housed in the old prison, the 18th century chapel of São Pedro ad Vincula.
On Praça do Carmo, near the seafront, is the church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo, built in 1581, burned down by the Dutch in 1631 and restored in 1720. Of the original building there survive only the 16th century altar and the Renaissance doorway on the west front.
In Rua da Saudade is the church of São João dos Militares (1580), the only church in Olinda which escaped destruction by the Dutch in the 17th century.
On higher ground is the church of Nossa Senhora da Graça, designed by the Jesuit Francisco Dias and built from 1580 onwards. In a picture by the Dutch painter Frans Post the ruined church is shown as it appeared after being burned down by the Dutch in 1631.
The Regional Museum (furniture, sacred art) is in Rua do Amparo, which also has a number of sobrados (two-story houses of the colonial period) in a style which shows Moorish influence.
The Ribeira Market (craft shops) occupies a 17th century building in Rua Bernardo Vieira de Melo, a little way south-east of the Museum of Contemporary Art.
From the 1500's to 1800's, this was the location of slave trading. Today, the market features handicrafts.
Rua 13 de Maio runs into Rua dos 4 Cantos, the traditional meeting-place of Olinda's carnival clubs. In this street is the sculpture "Senhor Atado" ("Christ in Chains"), one of a series of Stations of the Cross dating from 1773. Other stations are the "Senhor Carregando a Cruz" ("Christ Carrying the Cross") in Rua Bernardo Vieira de Melo, the "Senhor Apresentado ao Povo do Castelanho" ("Christ Presented to the People of Castelanho") in Rua 27 de Janeiro and "Nossa Senhora com Jesus" ("Mary with Jesus") on Largo do Amparo.
In 1809 an additional sculpture, the "Senhor dos Montes das Oliveiras" ("Christ on the Mount of Olives"), was set up on the Alto da Sé.
The picturesque beach of Maria Farinha lies near expanses of untouched mangrove swamp and sandbanks through which run navigable channels. Here there are facilities for water-skiing, wind-surfing and other water sports; also sightseeing flights in an ultra-light aircraft.
On the north side of the town are the beaches of Milagres (within the town), Carmo, São Francisco, Bairro Novo, Casa Caiada and Rio Doce (6km/4mi). On the Praia de São Francisco is the 16th century Fort São Francisco. Casa Caiada (4km/2.5mi away), enclosed by artificial reefs, offers facilities for all kinds of water sports.
45km/28mi north of Olinda is Itamaracá. It can be reached by road or on a small steamer (about 40 passengers), departing from the Quatro Rodas Hotel and sailing past the beaches mentioned above; a stop is made at the enchanting island of Coroa de Avião for bathing. The trip takes 1.5 hours.
In the commune of Paulista are a number of very popular beaches: Janga (8km/5mi from Olinda), Nossa Senhora do ó (13km/8mi), Pau Amarelo (14km/8.7mi) and Maria Farinha (22km/13.6mi).
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São Bento, Olinda
Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Olinda
Olinda
