Malinalco Attractions
How to get there
By bus from Mexico City or Toluca to Chalma, and thence by group taxi; by car from Mexico City it is 44km/27mi on the MEX 95D to Tres Marías, then turn right and proceed via the Lagunas de Zempoala (14km/8.7mi) and Chalma (40km/25mi) to Malinalco (11km/7mi); from Toluca take the MEX 55 south as far as 13km/8mi past Tenango, and then turn left to Malinalco (27km/17mi). From the town of Malinalco to the ruins is a steep climb taking 30 minutes.
The archaeological site of Malinalco lies on the Cerro de los Idolos ("Hill of Idols"), 220 m (720 ft) above the village of the same name, in a region of green forests and rugged rock formations. This Aztec cult site is unique in having one of the very few rock-cut pre-Columbian structures in Meso-America.
History Finds of pottery in Teotihuacán style indicate that the site was occupied in the early Classic period. Later it appears to have been under the nfluence of the Toltecs. In the 12th c. ad one of the Nahua tribes moving from Aztlán to the Anáhuac valley settled in Malinalco (Náhuatl: "place of the manilalli herb"). The town was taken from the Matlatzinca by the Aztecs (Mexica) under Axaycatl in 1476, and the building of the main cult structures probably began 25 years later.
When the Spaniards, led by Andrés de Tapia, captured Malinalco in 1521 the ceremonial centre was not yet complete. Augustinian missionaries established themselves here in 1537.
By bus from Mexico City or Toluca to Chalma, and thence by group taxi; by car from Mexico City it is 44km/27mi on the MEX 95D to Tres Marías, then turn right and proceed via the Lagunas de Zempoala (14km/8.7mi) and Chalma (40km/25mi) to Malinalco (11km/7mi); from Toluca take the MEX 55 south as far as 13km/8mi past Tenango, and then turn left to Malinalco (27km/17mi). From the town of Malinalco to the ruins is a steep climb taking 30 minutes.
The archaeological site of Malinalco lies on the Cerro de los Idolos ("Hill of Idols"), 220 m (720 ft) above the village of the same name, in a region of green forests and rugged rock formations. This Aztec cult site is unique in having one of the very few rock-cut pre-Columbian structures in Meso-America.
History Finds of pottery in Teotihuacán style indicate that the site was occupied in the early Classic period. Later it appears to have been under the nfluence of the Toltecs. In the 12th c. ad one of the Nahua tribes moving from Aztlán to the Anáhuac valley settled in Malinalco (Náhuatl: "place of the manilalli herb"). The town was taken from the Matlatzinca by the Aztecs (Mexica) under Axaycatl in 1476, and the building of the main cult structures probably began 25 years later.
When the Spaniards, led by Andrés de Tapia, captured Malinalco in 1521 the ceremonial centre was not yet complete. Augustinian missionaries established themselves here in 1537.
Building I
Immediately north of Building VI (Edificio VI) will be found Building I (Edificio I), the Templo Principal. Entirely hewn from the rock, this temple was originally faced with a thin coating of coloured stucco. As the House of the Eagle (Cuauhcalli), symbolising the sun, it was used for the initiation of members of the religious military orders, the Eagle Knights and the Jaguar Knights.
The staircase is flanked by the remains of carved jaguars: in the middle can be seen the damaged figure of a standard-bearer. The Temple which stands on the platform is now protected by a palm-leaf roof. The entrance to the circular shrine is carved in low relief to resemble the jaws of a snake, on either side of which stand a serpent-throne and a war-drum throne. The temple-chamber, 6 m (20 ft) in diameter, contains three figures of sacred animals hewn from the native rock; to the left and right are eagles and in the middle, to the rear, a jaguar. In the centre of the semicircle rests the carved representation of an eagle's skin, and behind this is a cavity in which the hearts of sacrificial victims were probably deposited.
The staircase is flanked by the remains of carved jaguars: in the middle can be seen the damaged figure of a standard-bearer. The Temple which stands on the platform is now protected by a palm-leaf roof. The entrance to the circular shrine is carved in low relief to resemble the jaws of a snake, on either side of which stand a serpent-throne and a war-drum throne. The temple-chamber, 6 m (20 ft) in diameter, contains three figures of sacred animals hewn from the native rock; to the left and right are eagles and in the middle, to the rear, a jaguar. In the centre of the semicircle rests the carved representation of an eagle's skin, and behind this is a cavity in which the hearts of sacrificial victims were probably deposited.
Building III
North-east of the House of the Eagle and to the north of Building II lies Building III, consisting of an antechamber and a round chamber containing an altar hollowed out of the rock. This was probably a tzincalli, a temple in which the "messenger of the Sun" - a warrior killed in battle or sacrificed by the enemies of the Aztecs - was cremated and "deified". The Aztecs believed that the souls of warriors killed in this way became stars. In the ante-chamber can be seen the remains of interesting frescos, probably depicting warriors who had already been transformed into stars.
Building IV
The large Building IV, partly hewn from rock and adjoining Building III to the north, is believed to have been a Temple of the Sun. A remarkable wooden drum (tlapanhuéhuetl), with finely carved figures and glyphs of the eagle and jaguar associated with the "messenger of the Sun", was found here; it is now in the museum in Tenango.
Building VI
At the south-west corner a group of buildings on a narrow platform cut into the hillside lies Building VI (Edificio VI), the construction of which was interrupted by the Spanish conquest.
Church of San Salvador
The village of Malinalco boasts the interesting church of San Salvador belonging to an Augustinian convent, with a plain 16th c. Renaissance doorway and early frescos on the rear wall on the right through the entrance. Between January 6th and 8th dances are held in the convent's atrium in honour of the Magi.
Malinalco Surroundings
Read More
Ixtapan de la Sal, Mexico
33km/21mi south of Tenancingo on the MEX 55 is the spa town of Ixtapán de la Sal (1900 m (6234 ft); population 40,000; Sunday market; fiesta on second Friday in Lent, Día del Señor de la Misericordia). This attractively situated resort attracts many visitors with its radioactive mineral springs and the facilities it offers for a variety of sports.
Laguna de Zempoala
40km/25mi north-east of Chalma lie the seven Lagunas de Zempoala, in a magnificent setting reminiscent of the Alps.
Tenancingo, Mexico
15km/9.3mi west of Malinalco lies Tenancingo (Náhuatl for "place of little walls"; 2040 m (6693 ft); population 40,000; fiestas May 15th, Día de San Isidro Labrador; October 4th, Día de San Francisco; December 8th, Día de la Inmaculada Concepción. The town has an 18th c. Carmelite convent, the Convento del Santo Desierto de Tenancingo, and is noted for its wooden furniture and rebozos (shawls).
