Lençóis, 425km/264mi west of Salvador, enjoyed a rapid economic upswing when a rich seam of diamonds was discovered in the nearby Serra de Sincorá in 1844, and soon developed into the third largest town in Bahia, its prosperity reflected in fine new buildings. Within fifty years, however, the seam was worked out and the boom came to a sudden end. Evidence of this brief heyday is provided by the stone-built church of Bom Jesus dos Passos with its delicately wrought doorways and Baroque pictures. The town has also a number of handsome 18th and 19th century buildings.
The Rio Lençóis flows through a rocky landscape in many shades of color, from which it has carved out many basins and pools, now filled with dark-colored ferruginous water. 2km/1.3mi upstream from the town center is the Salão de Areias, a cave famed for the sand which shimmers in over a hundred changing hues. Local artists use it to make colorful sand pictures in clear glass bottles.
On the Rio Serrano, 1km/.7mi outside Lençóis, is a natural slide of smooth wet stones, at the end of which is a beautiful pool. There are other waterfalls in the area, notably the Cachoeira Primavera and the Cachoeirinha.
70km/45mi from Lençóis, in the commune of Iraquara, are some of the most interesting caves in the Chapada Diamantina. The Lapa Doce Cave (13km/8mi long, but only 1300m/1420yds open to the public) is the fourth largest cave in the whole of Brazil, with magnificent stalactite formations.
In the commune of Iraquara is the Pratinha Cave, through which the crystal-clear stream of that name follows a winding course. It contains a lake of very clear green water.
On the Morro de Chapéu is the Brejões Cave, the sixth largest cave in Brazil. Huge limestone formations form a natural altar, on which are a cross and images of saints. The cave is near the Rio Jacaré, a tributary of the São Francisco. Access from BR 324 or from a road branching off BA 757.
In the valley of the Rio de Contas, to the south of the Serra de Sincorá, is the Mangabeira Cave, which is illuminated by the candles of pilgrims who come, most of them in August, to pay homage to the Sacred Heart.
30km/19mi from the town is the Morro do Pai Inácio, a landmark in the Chapada Diamantina and a happy hunting ground for rock climbers. A local legend has it that a runaway slave named Inácio who was being pursued by his master flung himself down from the top of the hill and survived. The African heritage of this region is reflected in such ceremonies as the Festa do Jaré (Jaré being a local variant of Candomblé).
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Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina
