João Pessoa, capital of Paraíba state, lies on the Atlantic coast of Brazil between Natal (185km/115mi north) and Recife (120km/75mi south).
Bus station
Rua Francisco Londres
Airport
Aeroporto Regional Presidente Castro Pinto
History
Filipéia de Nossa Senhora das Neves - as the town was originally known - was founded in 1585 near the mouth of the Rio Paraíba and was chartered from the outset as a town - the third oldest town in Brazil. The town was designed to support the settlement of the north coast, from Paraíba to Ceará.
Thanks to its strategic situation and the good soil of the surrounding area, suitable for the growing of sugar-cane, the town prospered. Its prosperity is reflected in its handsome Baroque buildings; modern development has fortunately been kept within bounds.
The Chapel of the Third Order, covered with gilded carving and paintings, is known as the Capela Dourada (Golden Chapel). On the columns of the high altar are sirens and other mythological figures. The side altars are no less richly decorated.
From Praça São Francisco Rua Duque de Caxias runs south past the Misericódia church (1612) to Praça João Pessoa, in which is another large religious complex, the Jesuit College (1586) and the Jesuit house associated with it. The College is now occupied by the Law Faculty of the University; the conventual buildings, now known as the Palácio da Redenção, house the state government.
The stone-built Casa da Pólvora (1710), on Largo de São Francisco, to the north of the Cathedral, is now occupied by the Museu Walfredo Rodrigues, with photographic material on the history of João Pessoa.
On Avenida Presidente Kennedy (Tambauzinho district) is a house once occupied by the writer José Lins do Rego (1901-57), now a Cultural Center, with a library, a conference hall, a theatre, a cinema, an art gallery and a planetarium.
Amongst the best beaches in Joao Pessoa are Tambau, Praias de Manaira, Praias do Bessa and Praias do Poco. The Cabo Branco also features beautiful beaches.
85km/53mi from João Pessoa on BR 101 Norte is the Baía da Traição, with cliff-fringed beaches and a scatter of small fishing villages. Features of interest are the old cannon left after the expulsion of the Dutch in 1625 and the church of São Miguel (1741). The Festa do Toré (a native dance) is celebrated on April 19th.
In the harbor area, at the Praia da Ponta de Mato, is Fort Santa Catarina, built by Cristóvão Lins in 1589 and rebuilt by the military architect Francisco Frias in 1618-22.
At the Praia de Lucena (20 minutes by boat from Cabedelo) is the church of Nossa Senhora da Guia. This 16th century church is in the Churrigueresque style (also found in the sumptuous church of São Francisco in Salvador), which evolved in Spain and is therefore very rare in Brazil. It also shows typically Brazilian features, like the sculptured ornaments of tropical fruits. In the first half of December the Festa de Nossa Senhora da Guia is celebrated at the Praia de Lucena, with rodeos and song and dance performances.
Between December and February a sandbank known as the Ilha de Areia Vernelha ("Island of Red Sand") emerges from the sea at low tide. It can be reached in jangadas (fishing boats) from the beaches of Camboinha and Poço in Cabedelo.
The road to Campina Grande, the second largest town in Paraíba state, to the west of João Pessoa, runs past a number of sugar-mills. In 50km/31mi it comes to the large Engenho Itapuá, the sugar-mill which inspired José Lins do Rego to such works as "Fogo Morto" ("Dead Fire", 1943).
108km/67mi from João Pessoa on the road to Campina Grande is the Pedra do Ingá, with rock inscriptions. This area in the Chapada de Borborema was formerly the territory of the large Cariri tribe, which now, along with other tribes such as the Xucuru, numbers no more than 4000.
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Santo Antônio Monastery
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Cabedelo - Fort Santa Catarina
