The summer and winter resort of Flims lying on a south-facing terrace 500 m/1,641ft above the Vorderrhein, consists of the original mountain village of Flims Dorf and the hotel development of Flims Waldhaus to the south. The high plateau with its extensive forests and its beautiful lake, the Caumasee, is magnificent walking and climbing country. This easily accessible resort - reached by leaving the highway at Reichenau, 10km/6mi west of Chur and taking a road which runs up to Flims in 12km/7mi - lies on the great mass of debris resulting from the biggest landslide of the last Ice Age in Switzerland. The debris covers an area of 40 sq. km/15 sq. mi, reaching 14km/9mi downstream and 6km/4mi upstream, and blocks the Vorderrhein valley for a distance of 15km/9mi between Kästris and Reichenau. The landslide brought down at least 12,000 cu. m/423,720 cu. ft of rock.
There is a wide choice of recreational activities including classical concerts and traditional plays, excursions and sporting events such as the Alpine triathlon, mountain bike racing, moonlight skiing and hot air balloon week.
Chair-lift (1,400 m/4,595ft in 20minutes) by way of Alp Foppa to Alp Naraus; from there cableway (2,200 m/7,218ft in seven minutes) to Cassonsgrat. Cableway from Flims Dorf to Startgels (1,590 m/5,217ft); from there Graubergbahn at 2,230 m/7,317ft, near the Berghaus Nagiens (2,128 m/6,982ft). Cableway (height difference 1,100 m/3,609ft, time 10minutes) to Crap Sogn Gion (2,228 m/7,310ft; restaurant).
(Experienced climbers only with guides). Piz Segnes (3,102 m/10,178ft; eight hours) by way of the Segneshütte (2,130 m/6,989ft; serviced). Vorab (3,030 m/9,941ft; six hours), with magnificent views of the Tödi group.
The small town of Flims and the purpose-built resort of Laax just down the road are less known to North American skiers but the Swiss and Germans have long enjoyed the slopes around the towns in the southeast part of Switzerland. One major lift from each town carries skiers to the ski area which is served by 33 different lifts. There are trails to suit every level of skier.
The history of the Park Hotel Waldhaus from the first half of the 20th century is described through posters, blueprints and hotel equipment. A baker's shop circa 1904, carriage stables and a crystal collection are available for viewing.
Address: Flims - Hotelmuseum, Park Hotel Waldhaus, CH-7018 Flims, Switzerland
Facilities: Gift shop, On-site accomodations, Restaurant or food service
The village of Flims (Romansch Flem), under the Flimserstein (Crap da Flem, 2,696 m/8,846ft), has a Late Gothic church (1512). The "Schlössli" (1682) is now the headquarters of the commune (Gemeindehaus). 2km/ 1mi east is the old German settlement of Fidaz (1,178 m/3,865ft), with wooden houses (an unusual case of the adoption of a Rhaeto-Romanic practice).
Several ice-rinks; curling rink; toboggan run (3km/2mi) from Alp Foppa; skiing on Alp Foppa (1,425 m/4,675ft) and Alp Naraus (1,840 m/6,037ft; restaurant), and on Cassonsgrat (2,678 m/8,787ft; inn) and Alp Nagiens; ski-lifts; cross-country skiing. Flims-Laax-Fellers "Weisse Arena" ("White Arena'), with summer skiing on the Vorab.
From Mulania a cableway (length 4,200 m/13,780ft, height difference 1,100 m/3,609ft, time 10minutes) runs up to Crap Sogn Gion (2,228 m/7,310ft), the starting-point of the Laax skiing and climbing area, with a modern mountain restaurant seating 600 and an indoor swimming pool.
Ascent of the Flimserstein (4.5-5 hours): from Flims Dorf via Fidaz and Bargis (1,550 m/5,086ft; from here bear left uphill) to Alp Sura (three hours; 2,102 m/6,897ft); then over the Alpine meadows to the highest point (1.75 hours; 2,696 m/8,832ft), with magnificent views to the north of Ringelspitz (Piz Bargias, 3,251 m/10,667ft) and the Trinserhorn (Piz Dolf, 3,028 m/9,935ft).
5km/3mi west of Flims on the road to Ilanz (12km/7mi; postal bus) is the village of Laax (alt. 1,016 m/3,333ft; pop. 610), which in the time of King Rudolf of Habsburg (13th C.) was the seat of a county, with the right to hold a market and self-government. There is a Baroque church (1675) and the local museum has an interesting local history collection.
Address: Laax Tourist Office, Center Communal, CH-7031 Laax, Switzerland
An alternative to the railroad is the postal coach of the Grand Canyon Express.
Route: Chur-Laax and vice versa.
Highlights: From June to October a postal coach runs daily from Chur through the "Grand Canyon" of the Vorderrhein to Laax or vice versa. Between Bonaduz and Laax the road, which is little used, winds its way along the ravine to the Vorderrhein Gorge. There are views of the white calcite pinnacles and of the river glistening far below. The night is spent in the Sporthotel "Rancho" in Laax.
Special features: There are four coaches at the disposal of visitors, each having room for eight passengers and the driver. In good weather the roof is opened, but even if it rains the coach is perfectly comfortable. In the price quoted for this trip the rail journey from most Swiss stations to Chur or Laax (and return) as well as the coach trip from Chur to Laax and vice versa and accommodation at the Sporthotel "Rancho" are included.
From Waldhaus beautiful forest tracks run southwest (one hour) to Salums (1,015 m/3,330ft; restaurant) and southeast (one hour) past the delightful Caumasee, in the heart of the forest (1,000 m/3,281ft; small funicular to shore), to Conn (990 m/3,248ft; restaurant); from both places there are superb views of the gorge of the Vorderrhein. From Flims Dorf to the Cresta-See (850 m/2,789ft), on the Rhine valley road in the direction of Trin.