The old-world little town of Chaves, the Roman Aquae Flaviae, lies on a plateau in northern Portugal near the Spanish frontier, in an area watered by the Rio Tâmega which has been intensively cultivated since ancient times. As far back as the Romans there has been recourse to the town's hot springs (73°C/163°F) for the treatment of rheumatism and internal ailments, and the modern thermal baths below the castle are well used today.
History
The town has a history dating back to pre-Roman times. With a substantial stone bridge over the Rio Tâmega built in the reign of Trajan (98-117), it became an important staging point on the road between Asturica Augusta (Astorga) and Bracara Augusta (Braga). During the Middle Ages it was a stronghold defending Portuguese territory against Spain in the north.
Townscape
The town still presents a sturdy defensive face to the world, its powerful castle rearing above the white houses with their balconies and arcades.
The massive castle above the town was built on the site of a Roman fortress. It was strengthened after the Moorish conquest, badly damaged during the Reconquista and rebuilt by King Dinis in the 13th/14th C. The medieval castle was the residence of the first Duke of Bragança, a natural son of King Joao I. In the 17th C. Vauban-style bastions were built on to the castle, but these were later destroyed. The imposing keep, the Torre de Menagem, houses a small military museum.
The life of the town revolves around the Praça da República, with a Manueline pelourinho (pillory column) and the parish church, the Igreja Matriz. Originally Romanesque, this was rebuilt in the 16th C., only the tower and part of the doorway surviving from the earlier church.
Behind the parish church in Chaves the Baroque church of the Misericórdia (17th century) has azulejo pictures (Biblical scenes) covering the interior walls and fine 18th century ceiling paintings.
In Outeiro Seco, about 4km/2.5mi north of Chaves stands the church of Nossa Senhora da Azinheira, an aisleless Romanesque building with unusual figural decoration on the facade, and medieval frescos (much altered) in the interior.
The Rio Tâmega is spanned by a well preserved Roman bridge of 12 arches, 140m/155yd long, dating from the A.D. second century. The two Roman milestones, with inscriptions, in the middle of the bridge are copies of the originals which are in the town museum.
Near the Ponte Romana, on the left bank of the Rio Tâmega in Chaves, stands the Baroque church of Sao Joao de Deus, an octagonal structure made particularly impressive by its fine granite facade.
About 15km/9mi southwest of Chaves, Vidago (alt. 350m/1,148ft) has hot springs used to treat internal ailments. Some sanatoria and hotels have been forced to close, however, but the Art Nouveau Palace Hotel is worth a visit.
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Pedras Salgados, Portugal
Ponte Romana, Chaves
Outeiro Seco - Nossa Senhora da Azinheira, Chaves
