The principal town on the lake, also called Catemaco (370 m (1215 ft); population: 42,000), lies on the north-west shore, its inhabitants making a living mainly from fishing and tourism. The church of the Virgen del Carmen (feast day: July 16th), situated on the plaza, is a popular place of pilgrimage, as is evident from the many votive offerings left at the portal. Catemaco also has a reputation for its "curanderos" (healers) and "brujos" (medicine men) who, with their supposedly miraculous powers, still wield considerable influence over some elements of the population. The tropical forests around Catemaco are in any case famous for their many species of medicinal plant.
Acayucan (160 m (525 ft)); population: 37,000), about 80km/58mi south-east of Catemaco on the MEX 180, is a major road junction where the MEX 185 branches off southwards, crossing the Isthmus of Tehuantepec to Juchitán (195km/121mi), Tehuantepec (220km/137mi; see entry) and Santa Cruz (235km/146mi).
From Santiago Tuxtla on MEX 180 carry on north-westwards for another 70km/43mi to Alvarado (population: 50,000) on the Gulf coast. The town is built on a sandy spit separating the Laguna de Alvarado from the Gulf of Mexico.
Beyond Minatitlán a motorway, carried across the Río Coatzacoalcos by a magnificent bridge, provides speedy access to Coatzacoalcos (5 m (16 ft); population: 400,000), a major industrial city and port 25km/16mi to the north-east. Here too the oil boom has brought massive expansion, including development of a huge petro-chemicals complex. A terrible price has however been exacted, with air, soil and water pollution reaching catastrophic levels. The once thriving fishing and farming economies have today all but disappeared.
The El Zapotal archaeological zone near by was discovered only recently. Finds, including life-size terracotta figures dating from AD 600-900, can be seen displayed in the Anthropological Museum at Jalapa.
Veracruz is 70km/43mi or so north-west of Alvarado, still on the MEX 180.
A short distance from San Andrés Tuxtla (about 5km/3mi) over a poor track inaccessible by car) lies a legend-rich crater lake called the Laguna Encantada ("Enchanted Lake"). The water level paradoxically falls in the rainy season, recovering again in the dry. From time to time volcanic activity heats the water up to such an extent that all the fish in the lake die. The stocks miraculously replenish themselves as soon as it cools down.
Beyond Acayucan, the MEX 180 turns north-eastwards towards Minatitlán (65 m (113 ft); population: 180,000) which lies just off the road some 40km/25mi distant. Exploitation of oil and sulphur deposits has transformed the town in recent years into a busy industrial centre.
From Catemaco a road makes its way north to the fishing village of Montepío, some 40km/25mi distant. It winds past steep mountain slopes covered with luxuriant vegetation, picturesque lagoons and attractive beaches - of which Jicacal and Escondida are the most delightful.
Along the MEX 180, driving north-west of Laguna Encantada for about 10km/6mi to Santiago Tuxtla (360 m (1180 ft); population: 51,000; fiestas: July 24th, San Juan, and July 23rd-25th, Santiago Apóstol). The town straddles the Río Tuxtla on the edge of the tropical forest. Adorning the plaza is a typical Olmec colossal head. Other Olmec artefacts, including some fine stone carvings from the Olmec sites at Tres Zapotes and Nestepe, can be seen displayed in the small Tuxteco Museum.
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