Situated at the intersection of Calle 59 and Calle 18, the 16th c. church of San Francisco contains five carved wooden altars painted in vermilion and white. The San Francisco monastery, somewhat further north on Miguel Alemán (Malecón) quay, is thought to stand on the site where, in 1517, the first Christian mass was held on Mexican soil. Here also Hernán Cortés' grandson Jerónimo, born in 1562, is believed to have been christened. The font is still in use.
In September during the feast of the Holy Cross, Catholics pay homage to the Cristo Negro (Black Christ) which is carved of ebony and rests on the main altar of the church.
Address: Campeche Churches and Fortresses, Campeche, Campeche , Mexico
The cathedral church of La Concepción stands on the Plaza Principal (Plaza de Independencia) which is also graced by beautiful old colonial houses. The cathedral was begun in 1540 but only completed in 1705. It has a plain Baroque façade.
Address: Campeche Churches and Fortresses, Campeche, Campeche , Mexico
Much the best time to visit the market (mercado) is during the fiesta. Souvenirs on sale include "jipis" (Panama-style hats) and handcrafted items made from tortoise-shell, seashells and hardwoods.
A new Museo Regional (Regional Museum) has been established in the Casa del Teniente del Rey near the Puerta de Tierra. It houses archaeological finds related to the history of Campeche. They include grave goods from Calakmul, among them a superb mosaic mask.
On MEX 180 from Hecelchakán head for Calkiní (25km/15.5mi) and then Becal (32km/20mi), both larger towns, the latter having a reputation for "jipi"-making. Before being put on sale these light-weight tropical hats are left to "mature" in dank store-rooms under the ubiquitous patios.
Maxcanú is 30km/19mi beyond Becal, and Mérida another 95km/59mi beyond that.
From Dzibalchén another track runs for almost 20km/13mi to Iturbide, near which lies the Dzibilnocac archaeological zone, one of the largest in the Chenes area. The main temple at Dzibilnocac (Mayan: "Painted buildings") has a similar façade to the principal temple at Hochob.
Leaving Campeche by the MEX 180 (shown on some maps as MEX 261), drive north via Tenabo to the little town of Hecelchakán (56km/35mi) with its Franciscan church dating from 1620 and Museo Arqueólogico del Camino Real. The latter has a fine collection of clay figurines from Jaína island. Stelae and lintels found during excavations in the area are also displayed on the museum patio.
There are numerous archaeological sites around Hecelchakán, two of which, Kocha and Xcalumkin (Holactún), deserve particular mention.
From Ciudad del Carmen cross by ferry to the small mainland fishing village of El Zacatal, a few kilometres beyond which the road passes the lighthouse at Xicalango. In pre-Columbian times Xicalango played an important role in trade between central Mexico and Yucatán. When Hernán Cortés sailed away from here, having called in on his way to Veracruz, he took with him an Indian woman of noble birth who became known as "La Malinche", later his interpreter and advisor as well as lover during his conquest of Mexico.