Ko Saen Chai, Thailand

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and believe in some form of animism which invests every common object with spirits, good or evil. Water, for example, is held to be the abode of evil spirits - a reason therefore for washing as little as possible.

Since 1976 the Thai government has encouraged the assimilation of the hill tribes, but with only partial success. The Akha, dwelling in the mountains around Chiang Rai, have preserved their cultural identity more perhaps than most. They still adhere to their old traditions, including those embodied in skilled craftsmanship practiced over many centuries. The government-run Thai Hillcraft Foundation, responsible for marketing the products (mainly silverware, embroidery and woven fabrics), has offices in Chiang Rai.

Generally speaking, any visit to the hill tribes should be in the company of a local guide with a knowledge of the language. Communication difficulties can lead to misunderstanding and the possibility of an unpleasant incident. It goes without saying that, here more than anywhere, tourists should exercise restraint (especially as regards photography).