Khao Phra Wiharn

Khao Phra Wiharn

The most sacred temple of the province of Si Saket, Khao Phra Wiharn, lies, according to a ruling of the International Court in Den Haag, in Cambodian territory, but because of its position on a rocky plateau can only be reached from Thailand. From Si Saket Highway 221 leads to Khao Phra Wiharn (about 100 km (62 mi.)). See also Introduction, Suggested Routes, North-east Thailand.

Not until two decades after its discovery, during which time the rock temple was left to decay, did the Prime Minister Choonhavan and Hun Sen, leader of the Cambodian government, agree in July 1989 to reopen this unique cultural monument to the public. The region has nevertheless remained so unstable that it is only occasionally possible to visit the temple. Even after an official peace agreement was reached between the Cambodian civil war factions in October 1991, there still continues to be sporadic military skirmishes between the government troops and the Khmer Rouge. Until the situation has significantly improved, it is absolutely imperative to seek up-to-the-minute advice from the tourist information service, e.g. in Ubon Ratchathani, as to whether a trip into the border area and to the temple is feasible. Anyone going there, when advised otherwise, could be risking their lives.

As with many of Thailand's temples there is a legend associated with its origin. A greedy couple who lived on the Mekong are said to have invented new kinds of fishing rods so as to become the richest fishing couple in the area. Pin, the couple's pretty daughter, was opposed to this and secretly gave the money to the poor. Her work did not go unnoticed and she won the heart of a prince who took her for his wife. To atone for the sins of the parents and show them the way to Nirvana, Pin had Khao Phra Wiharn built.

With a total length of over 1 km (1/2 mi.) Khao Phra Wiharn is one of the largest temple sites of the Khmer. Older than the temple city of Angkor Wat it is thought to have been built under King Jayavarman II between the 11th and 13th c., based on an Indonesian model in honor of the Hindu god Shiva. Gate towers, called gopuram (singular gopura), form the entrance to the buildings of the temple on all four levels.

A partly preserved staircase decorated with nagas leads from the lowest level over several levels to the main temple. A pavilion (prasat) on the second level is laid out in the shape of a cross, as is another on the third. The ponds in which the holy water was collected have long since dried out and are overgrown with grass.

This sanctuary, which for the main part is in a state of ruin, was covered in dense jungle for many years and only recently exposed. A mondhop (mandapa) remains which is in Baphuon style as is most of the site. Only the foundations are visible from some of the buildings making it difficult to recognize the original size of the site. There are numerous stone Buddha images and several reliefs in varying states of preservation. Of interest are the pavilions with artistically finished door lintels and the remains of the outer walls.