Scotland - Northwest Highlands

The term Northwest Highlands usually refers to the northern third of Scotland that is separated from the rest of the country by the "Great Glen" or "Glen More". This fault line has been exploited by man to create the Caledonian Canal which extends from the west coast to the east, from Loch Linnhe to the Moray Firth and which serves as the boundary between the Northwest Highlands and the Grampian Mountains.

Although Great Britain's tallest peaks are found in the Caledonian range, the altitudes are low in relative terms. The movements that occurred during the Pleistocene Era resulted in the formation of low-lying land as well as the dissection of valleys. Many Ice Age fjords penetrate deep inland. The jagged coastline between Loch Shiel and Cape Wrath which receives a fierce battering from the elements is founded on the oldest layers of rock in Scotland, the crystalline Lewisian gneiss, which is between 1.4 million and 2.8 million years old. Suilven, Cul Mor, Cul Beag and Quinag are just some of the impressive rock islands of dark red or gray Torridon sandstone (800 million years old) which project out of the gneiss. Some of the peaks such as Beinn Eighe and Canisp are topped with light gray or white Cambrian quartzite. To the east of the gneiss lie expanses of Cambrian limestone (ca. 600-800 million years old) adjoined by a wide area of gray-black, micaceous moine schist (800-1,000 million years old). The mountain ranges which generally follow a west-east line are important factors in creating the climatic differences which occur in the Highland region with its warm westerly Gulf Stream influences. Exposure to low-pressure areas from the northwest explains the high rainfall (about 80 inches/2,000mm per year) in what is the wettest region in the country. Only the protected coastal plain around the Moray Firth, Caithness and a few wind and frost protected zones in the southwest can support intensive crop cultivation. Environmental factors restrict the period when plants prosper. The podsolic and marshy land contains few nutrients and so only hardy plants such as the common heathers, bell heathers and also reindeer moss can survive while wild grasses grow on the upper slopes. The range of flora above limestone and moine schist is more varied. At Knockan Cliff, for example, purple foxglove, mountain avens and alpine lady's mantle thrive. Around Beinn Eighe old Scots Pine forests remain at lower altitudes, while above the tree line heather and moorland vegetation are plentiful.

Red deer, pine martens, badgers, wild cats, otters and white hare are all able to endure the harsh environment and bird watchers come to observe willow grouse, golden plovers, whinchats, redwings, ring ouzels, corncrakes and golden eagles.

Although for centuries emigration has plagued the Highlands region, more recently population movements have occurred within the region. In the urban areas along the Caledonian valley, state-subsidized small industries have attracted workers, while communications have improved between Inverness and Wick, encouraging population growth. In the peripheral areas, however, where there has been little investment and few opportunities for employment other than on the land, the population, particularly the younger people, has continued to drift away. Against a background of limited opportunities and the socio-economic consequences of the 19th century Sutherland Clearances, the Highlands and Islands Development Board (HIDB) was set up in 1965 with the aim of strengthening the whole local economy. The introduction of new industries would, it was hoped, secure the long-term future of the region and stabilize the population. Initiatives have included improving the road network (with the aid of EU subsidies), helping crofters to adjust to a market economy by enabling them to buy plots of land (since 1976) and establishing competitive co-operatives to market the region's products. Inshore fishing has also received help while a forestation scheme has proved to be somewhat controversial. Tourism has been promoted especially in spring and autumn.