Áthos Áyion Óros

Political status: autonomous monastic republic

The Holy Mountain (Áyion Óros) of Athos, an autonomous region within Greece and for more than 1,000 years a center of Orthodox monasticism, is the most easterly of the three "fingers" of the Chalcidice peninsula. This "garden of the Mother of God", as it is known to the monks, is an area of great natural beauty, with its hilly landscape and great expanses of forest washed by the waters of the Aegean, and of extraordinary interest with its twenty great monasteries and its host of lesser houses and hermitages scattered about the peninsula - a corner of Byzantium that has survived into modern times.

Picture - Batopedi Monastery in mount Athos.

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Athos Map

The first settlers on this finger of land up to 5km/3mi wide which reaches south-east for some 45km/28mi and rises to a height of 6,670ft/2,033m in Mt Athos, were a few isolated hermits. Then in A.D. 963 Athanasios, a monk from Trebizond, established, with the support of the Emperor Nicephorus Phocas, the first monastery, the Meyísti Lávra, the Great Lavra, which is still the largest of the monasteries. This was followed by numerous other foundations, which followed a rule (typikon) laid down by the Emperor John Tzimisces (969-976). The pattern of monastic life was coenobitic (communal), with prayer in common, meals in common and an abbot elected for life to rule each monastery. With the mystical movement known as hesychasm (from hesychos, "tranquil, quiet") which developed in the 14th century a new form of monastic life known as idiorrhythmic emerged. Under this system, apart from prayers in common, each monk was left free to choose his own pattern ("rhythm") of life and to practice his own form of asceticism, each monastery being governed by three trustees with a restricted term of office. In time most of the monasteries adopted the idiorrhythmic pattern.

Cruises along the south coast are run from Ammoulianí and Ouranópolis; visits to monasteries are permitted only if the party consists solely of men.

Visiting Athos is very different from a tourist area, and visitors must learn to fit in with the ways of this monastic republic. No women or "beardless boys" are admitted. Foreign visitors (who are limited to a daily quota) should obtain a letter of recommendation from their embassy, which must then be taken to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Athens or the Ministry of Northern Greece in Salonica, where they will obtain an authorization for presentation to the authorities on Athos. From the landing-stage at Dafní they travel by bus to Karyés, where they must first register with the police and then go to the Epistasía, where they receive the diamonitírion which entitles them to receive hospitality (free of charge) in the monasteries. In each monastery there is a guest wing (arkhondaríkion), with a guest-master (arkhondáris) who is responsible for looking after visitors. The use of tape-recorders and ciné-cameras is prohibited, but cameras are permitted. The monasteries are surrounded by massive walls, against which are built the monks' and guests' quarters and the tower housing the library. The principal church (Kathólikon) stands in the middle of the courtyard, usually with the fountain (fyáli) and refectory (trápeza) in close proximity. Most of the churches and refectories have fine wall paintings, and the libraries and treasuries contain many valuable books and precious objects. In 1981 a fire devastated Koutloumousíou monastery, but the icons and manuscripts were saved. From Karyés the various monasteries can be visited on foot, or it may be possible to hire a mule or, from Karyés to Ivíron, get a lift on a truck. Depending on weather conditions, and on the rather irregular boat services, many of the monasteries can be reached by sea. The mule-tracks and footpaths leading to the monasteries are of variable quality and frequently strenuous. In the area of the hermitages at the southern tip of the peninsula visitors should avoid disturbing the hermits.

Boats from Trypití and Ouranópolis to Dafní.

Visiting and staying in the Mt Athos monasteries is permitted only with a special pass issued by the capital of the monastic state at Karies, and only to men over 18 years-old.

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Monasteries

In recent years there has been a tendency to return to the stricter coenobitic system. At present 16 of the 20 monasteries are coenobitic - Esphigménou, Stavronikíta, Philotheoú, Karakalloú and the Great Lavra on the north-east coast, Koutloumousíou in the center of the peninsula and Zográphou, Konstamonítou, Dochiaríou, Xenophontos, Panteleímonos, Xeropotámou, Símonos Pétra, Grigoríou, Dionysíou and Pávlou on the southwest coast. The other four, all on the northeast coast, are idiorrhythmic - Chilandári, Vatopédi, Pantokrátoros and Ivíron. In addition to the 20 great monasteries there are several monastic villages, kellía occupied by "families" of three monks and, particularly on the steep south coast of the peninsula, small isolated hermitages. Most of the monks are Greek, but the other Orthodox nations are also represented - Russians in Panteleímonos, Bulgarians in Zográphou, Yugoslavs in Chilandári. Although political conditions have led to an aging in the population of the Russian monastery, there has been an influx of young monks into some of the other houses in recent years. The affairs of the monastic republic as a whole are managed by the Sacred Council (Iera Epistasía) which meets in the village of Karyés; its members are appointed by the monasteries for a year at a time.

Picture - Tower and courtyard of the Iviron Monastery, Mt Athos.

Picture - The waterfront monastery of Dionysiou, Mt Athos.

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Mount Athos

The ascent of Mount Athos (6,670ft/2,033m); seven hours from the Great Lavra), crowned by the chapel of the Transfiguration, to which there is an annual procession, is for good walkers only.