From the east side of Atrani a winding road with two sharp bends ascends through orange- groves to Ravello (350m/1,155ft), an old town in a superb situation above the Amalfi coast. The town founded during the Norman period, had its heyday under the Anjou dynasty in the 13th century when it had a population of 36,000; it possessed many churches,
monastic houses and palaces.
In the center of the town is the Romanesque cathedral of San Pantaleone (begun in 1086, remodeled in Baroque style) with fine bronze doors (covered externally with wooden doors) by Barisanus of Trani (1179). Inside there is a marble pulpit with a mosaic ground by Niccolo di Bartolomeo (1272). In the choir stands the bishop's throne, to the left the Capella di San Pantaleone in which some of the saint's blood is preserved.
Southeast of the cathedral is the Villa Rufolo, in Saracenic style (11th century), with a little pillared courtyard in the center. The garden with its lookout terrace (340m/1,122ft) provided Wagner with the model for Klingsor's enchanted garden.
A walk (about eight minutes) from the cathedral, first south through an arcade, then up through the portico of the church of San Francesco (cloister in Romanesque style) and past the church of Santa Chiara leads to the Villa Cimbrone. An avenue runs through the beautiful park to the Belvedere Cimbrone, from which there are incomparable views of the Amalfi coast.
About 200m/220yd northeast of the cathedral is the church of San Giovanni del Toro (12th century; remodeled in Baroque style and modernized). Inside there is a mosaic pulpit adorned with Persian majolica (c. 1175); on the pulpit steps and in the crypt are frescoes of scenes from the life of Christ.
Print this page
Add to Favorites
