Cobá

How to get there
By bus from Cancún (about 2.5 hours), Tulum (about 1 hour) or Valladolid (about 2 hours); by car from Cancún via the MEX 307, branching off 2km/1.3mi south of Tulum (128km/79mi) onto a good road heading north (Cobá 42km/26mi); alternatively via the MEX 180 to Nuevo Xcan (85km/53mi), there turning off to the south (Cobá 45km/28mi).
Cobá, one of the biggest Mayan sites in Mexico encompassing a number of groups of ruins, lies close to several small lakes in dense Quintana Roo bush country.
Blessed by Yucatán standards with an abundance of water, this now almost completely overgrown ancient cult site and settlement was inhabited for a very long period from the early Classic period to the late 15th c.
History
Recent research suggests that Cobá (Mayan: "water moved by the wind") experienced its heydey in the Mayan Classic period (AD 600-900) though some of the buildings have been shown to date from the post-Classic era (AD 900-1450). It was still occupied when the Spanish arrived in the country but they were evidently unaware of its existence.
The site was rediscovered in 1891 by the Austrian Teobald Maler. Between 1926 and 1929 excavations were carried out for the Carnegie Institute by leading scholars, initially by the Briton Dr Thomas Gann and afterwards by the American and British archaeologists Sylvanus G. Morley, J. Eric Thompson and H. D. Pollock. Since 1973 research at Cobá has been undertaken by the Mexicans themselves.
The Ruins
Ample time is needed for a visit, both because the site covers a very large area and because the scenery is so beautiful. Some of the excavated pyramids, temples and stelae have yet to be named, others are identified only by numbers or letters assigned to them by archaeologists. The network of paths is also subject to frequent change.
Within the vast area of the site, estimated to be at least 70sq.km/27sq.mi, researchers have so far identified 45 local thoroughfares and connecting roads as well as more than 6000 buildings and other structures. A total of 32 stelae from the Mayan Classic period have already been found, most of them decorated with reliefs. Although the earliest date so far recorded (on Stela 6) is AD 613, the architecture of a number of buildings is strongly reminiscent of the Guatemalan Petén, suggesting construction during the Early Classic era (AD 300-600). Cobá's special status as a major metropolis is further indicated by the large number of sacbeob (plural of sacbé = white road) uncovered. These causeways, surfaced with limestone mortar flattened by heavy rolling, form an extensive network linking the centre with outlying districts. Quite exceptionally some of the raised roadways are as much as 10 m (33 ft) wide, and one runs for almost 100km/62mi to Yaxuná, an ancient cult site south-west of Chichén Itzá where, in the early 1990s, two graves were discovered dating from between AD 300 and 315 and unexpectedly revealing the influence of Teotihuacán. The road system in the vicinity of Cobá constitutes the most elaborate found anywhere in Meso-America.
Opening hours: 8am-5pm
Entrance fee in MXN: Adult $16.00

Related Attractions

Grupo de Cobá

To the right on entering the archaeological zone stands a row of buildings known as the Grupo de Cobá (Cobá Group or Group B) among which is the large, partially restored, 24 m (79 ft)-high pyramid called the "Church" (''Iglesia"). Measuring 40 m (131 ft) along its east/west axis and 50 m (164 ft) north to south, it has nine terraces, all with rounded corners. A wall above the seventh terrace supports the upper platform on which stands a small temple. The view from the top, a panorama of the Cobá area with its many pyramids, temples and lakes, is outstanding.
Just in front of the stairway leading up to the "Church" there is a stone block (Stela 11) about 1.40m/4.5ft high and 90 cm (35 in.) across, inscribed on one side with a large number of glyphs now unfortunately no longer legible. To the left of the pyramid lie a small group of other buildings in one of which there is a chamber with corbel vaulting.

Ball Court

Close to the "Church", but identified rather more easily from the road, are the remains of a ball court (Juego de Pelota).

Nohoch-Mul Group

Follow the track as it bears north-eastwards to the Nohoch-Mul Group (Mayan: "big hill"), also known as Group C. The principal pyramid (Structure I), called El Castillo, rises to a platform 42 m (138 ft) above the ground, making it the highest accessible Old Indian structure in the Yucatán peninsula. From the base, measuring 55 2 60 m (180 2 197 ft), a 12 m (39 ft)-wide external stairway of 120 steps mounts six terraces to the upper platform. Many of the steps are carved with shell motifs. Entry to the little temple atop the pyramid, in front of which stands a small altar, is by way of two narrow flights of steps 1 m (31/4 ft) wide. The pyramid itself is Mayan Classic but the temple crowning it is in the style of Tulum and dates from considerably later, probably the 14th or 15th c. All three of the square-shaped niches in the upper frieze of the temple contained figures of the so-called "Descending God", though only two now survive. The single doorway leads into a room with corbel vaulting. The view from the top is once again magnificent.
Also on the same plaza are the remains of Structure X, a platform with rounded corners, and the superb Stela 20, dated AD 780. The relief on the stela depicts a sumptuously arrayed ruler, each foot resting on the back of a slave shown on hands and knees. The ceremonial staff held at an angle is typical of the Cobá style. The sides and the upper part of the stela are inscribed with glyphs.

La Gran Plataforma

North of El Castillo lies La Gran Plataforma (Structure VII), the largest in volume of all the buildings at Cobá with a base measuring 110 2 125 m (361 2 410 ft) and height of more than 30 m (98 ft).

Macanxoc Group

On the way back from the Grupo de las Pinturas take the path which runs off leftwards after a short distance to the Macanxoc Group (Group A) situated between Lakes Macanxoc and Sacalpuc. Lacking any major structures but linked to the great 20 m (66 ft)-wide Sacbe 9, this now very overgrown area was presumably a ceremonial site of some kind. Eight stelae have so far been discovered, of which Nos. 1, 4 and 6 are in a relatively good state of preservation. These oblate stone pillars, 3 m (10 ft) high and 1.5 m (5 ft) across, are carved with reliefs of rulers and Mayan inscriptions in glyphic form. Stela 1 is unusual in being one of a small number of Mayan monuments bearing four different dates: 29. 1. 653, 29. 6. 672, 28. 8. 682 and 21. 12. 2011. Of these, the first three probably refer to real events while the last looks ahead to the start of a winter far in the future. With a total of 313 glyphs on its four sides, this stela is exceptionally heavily inscribed. Apart from the stelae the Macanxoc Group also includes several circular altars.
There are plenty of other interesting ruins in Cobá. Which to visit is a matter best decided on the spot since it will depend on their state of restoration and/or accessibility at the time.

Group of Paintings

Returning along the track from La Gran Plataforma towards the site entrance, veer left a little way along to the so-called Group of Paintings (Grupo de las Pinturas or Grupo D). The main building is a pyramid (Structure I) crowned by a small temple with doors facing east and west and a main portal on the north side divided in two by a column. The lintel over the portal and the three horizontal stone ledges above it all show clear traces of the original painting. The post-Classic frescos portray various numbers and deities. There is a splendid view of the El Castillo pyramid through the east door.
In the centre of the group stands Structure IV with its stela (No. 26), the latter with typical reliefs in the Cobá style.

Map - Coba