Madeira - South Coast Attractions

Calheta (pop. 4,000) is a little port below the coast road set amid banana plantations. The choir of the parish church (1639) has a carved wooden ceiling in Mudéjar style.

9km/6mi further on from Funchal is the little fishing port of Câmara de Lobos (wolves' gorge), picturesquely situated under the east side of Cabo Girao (589m/1,933ft), a rugged headland falling almost vertically down to the sea and said to be the highest cliff of its kind in Europe.

The village has long been a favorite with painters, among them Sir Winston Churchill. The village owes its name to the wolf fish which were once found here in large numbers. Beyond Câmara de Lobos the road climbs away from the coast, with numerous turns, to make its way around the north side of Cabo Girao.

About 2km/1.25mi northeast of Ponta do Sol, surrounded by banana plantations, is the Capela do Santo Espírito, rebuilt in the 18th C. but founded in the 16th by Joao Esmeraldo, one of Columbus's companions, who owned big sugar cane plantations in this area.

Beyond the Calheta turning the coast road continues to climb, with many bends, to Estreito da Calheta, off to the left (339m/1,112ft). The 16th century Capela dos Reis Magos (chapel of the Magi) has fine painted woodwork, a carved wooden ceiling and a triptych depicting the Three Kings. From here a side road runs down to Jardim do Mar, in a beautiful setting.

After Câmara de Lobos comes Estreito de Câmara de Lobos (alt. 500m/1,640ft). From here a minor road runs 4km/2.5mi north to the Jardim da Serra (750m/2,460ft), from which there are beautiful views. About 4km/2.5mi beyond Estreito de Câmara de Lobos a road forks left to the viewpoint over Cabo Girao.

6km/4mi past Prazeres a road forks left to the village of Faja da Ovelha, which lies in a forest setting at the foot of a massive crag, and to the little fishing settlement of Paúl do Mar (canning factory).

The coast road continues southeast from Machico, running close to the sea. About 1km/0.75mi beyond Machico a road off to the right leads to the Miradouro Francisco Aàlvares Nóbrega (another 1km/0.75mi), with a beautiful view of Machico Bay and the Sao Lourenço peninsula. Beyond the turning the main road continues along the coast, passing the Aàgua de Pena tourist village and the Santa Catarina airport.

There is a last, lovely view from the Miradouro do Pináculo before the final 5km/2.5mi to Funchal.

About 5km/3mi beyond Ponta do Sol a road forks right to the plateau 12km/7.5mi north of Paúl da Serra (1,419m/4,656ft). Often shrouded in mist, this is sheep country, and a good starting point for treks in the mountains.

From Machico the EN 101-3 runs east via the little whaling station of Caniçal (8km/5mi) to the bathing beach of Prainha, on the south side of the narrow peninsula of Ponta de Sao Lourenço, the most easterly tip of Madeira, and a place where many fossils have been found. The road ends above the Baía de Abra (several excellent viewing points).

Ponta do Sol (pop. 6,000) is on the coast road northwest out of Ribeira Brava. It is a picturesque little place built on both sides of the river of the same name. The church of Nossa Senhora da Luz (15th C.) has a painted wooden ceiling and some fine examples of silversmith's work.

Prazeres (621m/2,038ft), further along the main road, is finely situated on a wooded plateau, and also has magnificent views.

About 8km/5mi after Santo da Serra and before Funchal, to the left of the road, is the Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro, a beautiful private park to which the public are admitted and which harmoniously combines French and English gardening skills.

From Calheta a minor road runs 10km/6mi north to the Rabaçal hut (1,143m/3,750ft). From the "Balcao" (balcony), a short distance northeast, there are superb views of the Risco Falls Risco Falls and the green gorge known as Vinte e Cinco Fontes (twenty five springs).

Below the coast road is Santa Cruz, with a 16th century church and town hall. The locals catch ornamental fish.