Marais Quarter, Paris

The heyday of these aristocratic palaces (though under the Ancien Régime the term "palace" was applied only to a royal residence) was in the 16th and 17th centuries, when Paris had become the brilliant metropolis of Europe and fashionable society met in the mansions of the Marais. The hôtels of this period typically have a courtyard (the cour d'honneur) opening on to the street, the main range of buildings flanked by side wings, and a terrace and garden to the rear. Towards the end of the 17th century the quarter lost its attraction for the aristocracy and well-to-do middle classes, who followed the court to Versailles or moved to the Faubourg Saint- Germain. Then craftsmen and small traders moved into the quarter. The Revolution left terrible scars on the Marais, the mansions fell into ruin or were pulled down to make way for new housing, and the occasional attempts at restoration in the 19th century made little difference.It was only in 1962 that the Ministry of Culture, then headed by André Malraux, began to tackle the urgent task of conserving this historic quarter, rediscovering in the process the almost forgotten hôtels. Although the restoration and redevelopment of the Marais may have brought in the speculators, the traditional atmosphere of the Marais has been preserved. It has now become an "in" part of the city in which modern boutiques rub shoulders with old craftsmen's workshops and chic designer shops, temples of gastronomy, luxury hotels and small art galleries have been established. In a stroll through the narrow streets you will sense the "discreet charm of the bourgeoisie" and be struck by the successful combination of a medieval setting and a modern way of life.