Paço de Sousa

Some 10km/6mi southwest of Penafiel is the important Romanesque monastic church of Paço de Sousa (12th C.). Comprehensively restored after a fire in 1927, the church belonged at one time to a Benedictine monastery, and a part of its cloister has been retained.

The church has also maintained its Romanesque strength in the interior; the column bases are hewn from millstones. At the far end of the church is the sarcophagus (12th C.) of Egaz Moniz (1050-1140), tutor and confidant of Afonso Henriques, who played a major part in the history of his time. He is particularly remembered for an occasion in 1130 when, after Afonso Henriques I had broken his word to Afonso VII of León, he made his way to the Spanish king's court with a rope around his neck, accompanied by his wife and children, in order to do penance on behalf of his master. Impressed by his honesty and nobility, the Spaniard forgave the offence and allowed Moniz to return to Portugal. The very affecting reliefs on the sarcophagus, supported by lions, show scenes from the life of the dead man.